British designer Alexander McQueen designed 36 womenswear collections under his eponymous fashion label during a career that lasted from 1992 until his death in 2010. As a designer, McQueen was known for sharp tailoring, historicism, and imaginative designs that often verged into the controversial. His runway shows were known for being dramatic and theatrical, with some including elements of performance art. McQueen drew inspiration for his clothing and shows from a broad range of sources, including film, history, nature, world religions, art, and his own life. Through his work, he explored themes such as romanticism, sexuality, and death.
He used unusual cuts and silhouettes to play with the human form, making wearers appear inhuman. Early in his career, he originated an extreme low-rise trouser cut called the "bumster", which became a brand signature. Other significant designs include the skull scarf, another brand signature; the oyster dress; and the armadillo shoe, notably worn by singer Lady Gaga.
Womenswear was the focus of McQueen's career. In his early collections, he sometimes presented menswear or had male models walk in the shows, but his label did not have a regular menswear line until 2004. From October 1996 to October 2001, McQueen was – in addition to his responsibilities for his own label – head designer at French fashion house Givenchy, for which he produced both haute couture and ready-to-wear collections each season. This article concerns itself with McQueen's own-label womenswear collections.
Collections + Collection Season Show date Show location Themes and inspiration Notes Jack the Ripper Stalks His Victims 1992 graduation collectionDuke of York's Headquarters, LondonLondon serial killer Jack the Ripper and prostitution in the Victorian era, particularly their practice of selling locks of hair Thesis collection for Master's degree in fashion at Central Saint Martins; purchased in its entirety by editor Isabella Blow Taxi Driver Autumn/Winter 1993The Ritz Hotel, LondonTaxi Driver, a 1976 neo-noir film by Martin Scorsese; to a lesser extent McQueen's taxi driver fatherDebut of bumster trousers; exhibited rather than shown on runway; no pieces survive as entire collection was accidentally lost immediately following the exhibit Nihilism Spring/Summer 1994Bluebird Garage, LondonEclectic collection with no straightforward theme, elements of primitivism, pushback against feminine womenswearFirst professional catwalk showBanshee Autumn/Winter 1994Café de Paris, LondonThe Gaelic banshee, a spirit whose wailing foretells death; darkly romanticised idea of resilience through tragedyIsabella Blow walked as a model; show was reprised for New York Fashion Week at the behest of fashion promoter Derek Anderson The Birds Spring/Summer 1995Bagley's warehouse, LondonThe Birds, a 1963 natural horror film by Alfred Hitchcock; ornithology; the mathematical designs of graphic artist M. C. EscherFirst McQueen show styled by long-time collaborator Katy EnglandHighland Rape Autumn/Winter 1995Natural History Museum, LondonEnglish violence towards Scotland, especially the Jacobite risings and the Highland ClearancesFirst critically-significant collection, led to 1996 hiring by GivenchyThe Hunger Spring/Summer 1996Natural History Museum, LondonThe Hunger, a 1983 erotic horror film featuring vampiresFirst time McQueen showed menswear; first show produced by Sam Gainsbury, who would produce every subsequent show Dante Autumn/Winter 1996Christ Church, Spitalfields, LondonReligion and warfare; named for Dante's Inferno, a 14th-century epic poem describing HellFirst appearance of English supermodel Kate Moss in a McQueen show Bellmer La Poupée Spring/Summer 1997Royal Horticultural Hall, LondonPoupée, a 1934 series by surrealist photographer Hans Bellmer, which presented deconstructed dolls as a commentary on Nazi idealsFirst show worked by Sarah Burton, who became McQueen's right-hand woman; Black model Debra Shaw walked while shackled to a metal frame, generating controversyIt's a Jungle Out There Autumn/Winter 1997Borough Market, LondonLife cycle of the Thomson's gazelle; savagery of the fashion industry; paintings by the Old MastersSet accidentally caught fire during the show Untitled Spring/Summer 1998Gatliff Road Warehouse, LondonMetamorphosis; brutality; contrast of McQueen's work at his own label and at GivenchyOriginally titled The Golden Shower in reference to the sex act and retitled after objections from sponsor American ExpressJoan Autumn/Winter 1998Gatliff Road Warehouse, LondonMartyrdom and persecution in the medieval era, especially that of French folk heroine and saint Joan of ArcMcQueen was photographed for The Face magazine in April 1998 in hair and makeup similar to that used in this showNo. 13 Spring/Summer 1999Gatliff Road Warehouse, LondonArts and Crafts movement of the 1880s to 1920s; finale inspired by Rebecca Horn installation High Moon (1991)Show ended with model Shalom Harlow being spray-painted by robotsThe Overlook Autumn/Winter 1999Gatliff Road Warehouse, LondonThe Shining, a 1980 psychological horror film by Stanley Kubrick, particularly its winter settingFirst attendance of Vogue editor Anna Wintour at a McQueen show Eye Spring/Summer 2000Pier 94, New York CityIslamic culture and clothing, especially the burqa; relationship of Western world to Middle EastFirst time debuting a show outside of LondonEshu Autumn/Winter 2000Gainsborough Studios, LondonNamed for Yoruba deity Eshu; African-inspired primitivism with elements of Victorian fashionAnti-fur activists broke into the venue before the show and vandalised the set, resulting in heavy security on the day of the showVoss Spring/Summer 2001Gatliff Road Warehouse, LondonStaged as a voyeuristic look inside a stereotypical insane asylum; dresses of unusual materials like seashells and microscope slidesFinale showpiece presented author Michelle Olley nude, masked, and covered with live moths, in a recreation of Sanitarium (1983), a photograph by Joel-Peter Witkin What a Merry-Go-Round Autumn/Winter 2001Gatliff Road Warehouse, LondonDark underside of carnivals and circuses; Child Catcher villain from Chitty Chitty Bang Bang (1968)Final presentation at Gatliff Road; first appearance of skull print that is now a signature of the brandThe Dance of the Twisted Bull Spring/Summer 2002, ParisSpanish culture, especially bullfighting and flamenco dancingFirst collection after selling label to Gucci Group; first McQueen collection shown in ParisSupercalifragilistic-expialidocious Autumn/Winter 2002La Conciergerie, ParisFilms of American director Tim Burton, especially Sleepy Hollow (1999); English school uniforms; photography of Helmut LangLighting and invitation by film director Tim BurtonIrere Spring/Summer 2003Grande halle de la Villette, ParisThree-phase narrative: shipwrecked pirates, drowned maidens in black, and birds of paradiseDebut of the "oyster dress", a riff on a 1987 design by John Galliano called the "shellfish dress" Scanners Autumn/Winter 2003Grande halle de la Villette, ParisJourney eastward through the clothing of northern Eurasia: Siberia and the Russian Far East, Tibet, and JapanClear plastic wind tunnel was suspended over the runway for some models to walk throughDeliverance Spring/Summer 2004Salle Wagram, ParisDepression-era fashion, 1969 film They Shoot Horses, Don't They?Runway show was a performance emulating a dance marathon, with choreography by dancer Michael Clark Pantheon ad Lucem Autumn/Winter 2004Grande halle de la Villette, ParisAncient Greek draped garments; science fiction films like Close Encounters of the Third Kind (1977) and 2001: A Space Odyssey (1968)Entire title often incorrectly translated as Latin for "Towards the Light"; this is the correct translation for "ad lucem" but neglects to account for "pantheon"It's Only a Game Spring/Summer 2005Palais Omnisports de Paris-Bercy, ParisContrast of fashion cultures, giant chess scene from 2001 film of Harry Potter and the Philosopher's StoneRunway show featured performance inspired by Harry Potter chess, choreographed by dancer Les ChildThe Man Who Knew Too Much Autumn/Winter 2005Lycée Carnot, Paris1950s fashion, particularly as seen in the Alfred Hitchcock thriller The Man Who Knew Too Much (1956)Show invite based on theatrical poster for Hitchcock's film Vertigo (1958); first McQueen handbag, named for actress Kim Novak, who frequently appeared in Hitchcock filmsNeptune Spring/Summer 2006Imprimerie Nationale, Paris1980s fashion, including power dressing, hard glamour, and body conscious designsAll models were at least 5'11" in reference to the 1980s trend for Amazonian supermodelsThe Widows of Culloden Autumn/Winter 2006Palais Omnisports de Paris-Bercy, ParisSecond examination of English violence towards Scotland in more mature and melancholy terms; centres the widows of the Battle of Culloden (1746)Show closed with an illusion of Kate Moss as an apparition within a glass pyramid at the centre of the stageSarabande Spring/Summer 2007Cirque d'hiver, ParisExploration of fragility and decaying grandeur through floral motifsOne dress was covered with fresh flowers, which began to fall off on the runway in a moment of serendipitous beauty In Memory of Elizabeth Howe, Salem, 1692 Autumn/Winter 2007Le Zénith Arena, ParisReligious persecution conducted by Puritans in 17th century; ancient Egyptian religion; occult symbolismFinal McQueen show styled by long-time stylist Katy England La Dame Bleue Spring/Summer 2008Palais Omnisports de Paris-Bercy, ParisReinvention through fashion; avian and butterfly motifs; personal style of Isabella BlowCollaboration with Philip Treacy to memorialise their mutual friend Isabella Blow, who committed suicide in May 2007The Girl Who Lived in the Tree Autumn/Winter 2008Palais Omnisports de Paris-Bercy, ParisFairy tale narrative about a girl who lived in a tree; British culture and national symbols; clothing of India during the British RajPhilip Treacy created a single headpiece for the collection: an enormous peacock with fanned tail, made from driftwood and sea fan coral Natural Dis-tinction Un-natural Selection Spring/Summer 2009Le Centquatre, ParisBeauty of nature contrasted with the impact of human industryFirst of final three collections which shared a theme of the destruction of nature by humanityThe Horn of Plenty Autumn/Winter 2009Palais Omnisports de Paris-Bercy, ParisDark satire of the fashion industry with pastiches of notable designers and McQueen's past works; many items made to resemble trashCreative process documented by photographer Nick Waplington, published in photo book Alexander McQueen: Working Process Plato's Atlantis Spring/Summer 2010Palais Omnisports de Paris-Bercy, ParisHuman evolution following global flooding as a result of climate changeFinal fully-realised collection; first livestreamed fashion show in history; debut of the armadillo shoe; debut of Lady Gaga single "Bad Romance"Angels and Demons Autumn/Winter 2010, ParisReligious paintings of the Medieval and Renaissance periodsCollection left incomplete at the time of McQueen's suicide in February 2010, completed posthumously by his assistant Sarah Burton; title is unofficial Notes
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