Speed climbing competitions at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup were to be held at two locations, from 28 May to 3 July 2021. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had originally scheduled six speed climbing events concluding on 31 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of events in Xiamen and Wujiang in China, Jakarta in Indonesia and Seoul in South Korea.
The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.
Overview +DateLocationVenueMenWomenMay, 28–30 Salt Lake City, United StatesIndustry SLC Veddriq Leonardo Aleksandra MirosławJuly, 1–3 Villars, SwitzerlandPlace du Rendez-Vous Veddriq Leonardo Ekaterina BarashchukOVERALL WINNERS Veddriq Leonardo Emma HuntNATIONAL TEAM Indonesia
Records broken
+EventRoundClimberLocationTimeDateMen's speedQualification Kiromal KatibinSalt Lake City, USA5.258May 28, 2021Final Veddriq LeonardoSalt Lake City, USA5.208May 28, 2021
Competition format The speed wall is standardized: 15 meters high, 5 degrees overhanging, same route.
In the qualifications, athletes race in both lane a and lane b; only their best times are recorded and used for seeding. Sixteen fastest athletes in the qualifications progress into the finals where athletes are seeded and raced head-to-head against.each other.
Overall ranking The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are four competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted.
Men The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2021: Rank Name Points Salt Lake City Villars 1 Veddriq Leonardo 200 1. 100 1. 100 2 Kiromal Katibin 145 2. 80 3. 65 3 Marcin Dzieński 96 3. 65 11. 31 4 John Brosler 81 4. 55 13. 26 5 Dmitrii Timofeev 80 — 2. 80 6 Pierre Rebreyend 59 7. 43 18. 16 7 Vladislav Deulin 55 — 4. 55 8 Merritt Ernsberger 51 5. 51 — 8 51 — 5. 51 10 Yaroslav Tkach 50 8. 40 21. 10
Women The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2021: Rank Name Points Salt Lake City Villars 1 Emma Hunt 131 2. 80 5. 51 2 Patrycja Chudziak 120 4. 55 3. 65 3 Aleksandra Mirosław 100* 1. 100 — 3 Ekaterina Barashchuk 100* — 1. 100 5 Anouck Jaubert 94* 5. 51 7. 43 5 Natalia Kalucka 94* 6. 47 6. 47 7 Iuliia Kaplina 85 — 2. 80 8 Capucine Viglione 74 8. 40 10. 34 9 Miho Nonaka 65 3. 65 — 10 55 — 4. 55
* = Joint place with another athlete
National teams The results of the ten most successful countries of the Speed World Cup 2021:
Country names as used by the IFSC RankNationPoints Salt Lake City Villars1 Indonesia5034. 180.02. 323.02 Poland4472. 267.03. 180.03396.81. 276.05. 120.84 Russia384—1. 384.053403. 207.04. 133.06140.555. 139.5515. 1.07 Italy132.57. 75.07. 57.58 Ukraine1306. 95.010. 35.09 Austria101.88. 63.99. 37.91085.859. 63.012. 22.85
Salt Lake City, United States (May, 28–30)
Men 38 men attended the event.
Kiromal Katibin of Indonesia set a world record time of 5.258 seconds in qualifying, a record that was broken the same day by fellow Indonesian, Veddriq Leonardo, who hit the buzzer at 5.20 in the final run against Katibin. Poland's Marcin Dzieński placed third after beating American John Brosler in the small final. RankNameQual.1/81/41/2SmallFinal Veddriq Leonardo5.375.555.425.385.20 Kiromal Katibin5.255.49wildcard5.35fall Marcin Dzieński5.906.225.885.775.844 John Brosler5.605.725.985.766.895 Merritt Ernsberger6.197.826.136 Jun Yasukawa6.2536.186.237 Pierre Rebreyend6.145.94FS8 Yaroslav Tkach6.176.50fall9 Ludovico Fossali6.095.9510 Guillaume Moro6.366.1211 Mickaël Mawem6.286.7912 Michael Finn-Henry6.2557.7913 Gian Luca Zodda6.067.8814 Kostiantyn Pavlenko6.028.2815 Carlos Granja6.038.7316 Linus Bader6.3211.09
Women 24 women attended the event.
Poland's Aleksandra Mirosław took the win after winning a tight race against the United States' Emma Hunt who took second place. A non-speed-specialist Japan's Miho Nonaka placed third after beating Poland's Patrycja Chudziak in the small final. RankNameQual.1/81/41/2SmallFinal Aleksandra Mirosław7.207.837.597.407.38 Emma Hunt7.527.617.627.777.53 Miho Nonaka8.588.508.208.368.954 Patrycja Chudziak8.288.168.188.3710.405 Anouck Jaubert8.498.167.786 Natalia Kalucka7.689.598.487 Alexandra Elmer8.549.008.638 Capucine Viglione7.947.8710.589 Franziska Ritter8.338.5210 Callie Close8.728.7011 Tetiana Kolkotina8.688.9512 Brooke Raboutou9.369.5513 Akiyo Noguchi9.1210.2014 Kyra Condie8.4310.8215 Janja Garnbret8.3614.4716 Laura Stöckler8.7714.94
Villars, Switzerland (July, 1–3)
Men 51 men attended the event.
Indonesia's Veddriq Leonardo claimed his second consecutive win after beating Russia's Dmitrii Timofeev in the final race. Leonardo's teammate, Kiromal Katibin placed third after beating Russia's Vladislav Deulin in the small final. RankNameQual.1/81/41/2SmallFinal Veddriq Leonardo5.525.505.425.355.32 Dmitrii Timofeev5.6226.055.645.487.35 Kiromal Katibin5.485.355.316.075.304 Vladislav Deulin5.7565.675.625.515.3855.7346.785.686 Aleksandr Shikov5.676.075.727 Alfian Muhammad Fajri5.7245.606.138 Rishat Khaibullin5.7285.537.739 Aspar Jaelolo5.7265.7210 Sergey Rukin5.775.7811 Marcin Dzieński5.715.8012 Reza Alipour Shenazandifard5.545.8113 John Brosler5.7576.1114 Noah Bratschi5.7396.3615 Lev Rudatskiy5.6257.9116 Gian Luca Zodda5.7299.90
Women 40 women attended the event.
Russia's Ekaterina Barashchuk took her first World Cup gold medal after outracing her teammate and current world record holder Iuliia Kaplina in the final race. Poland's Patrycja Chudziak took third place after beating Indonesia's Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi in the small final. RankNameQual.1/81/41/2SmallFinal Ekaterina Barashchuk7.617.597.287.307.30 Iuliia Kaplina7.017.317.177.178.39 Patrycja Chudziak7.567.607.427.507.7347.347.337.02fall10.385 Emma Hunt7.727.437.196 Natalia Kalucka7.288.297.477 Anouck Jaubert7.49wildcard7.528 Rajiah Sallsabillah7.247.19fall9 Anna Brozek7.847.6110 Capucine Viglione8.007.6811 Giulia Randi7.9127.8712 Manon Lebon8.148.0013 Janja Garnbret7.9168.0114 Laura Stöckler8.078.5715 Elena Timofeeva8.1710.4716 Nurul Iqamah7.918FS
References