The 2021 Combined Japan Cup was held from 18 to 19 June 2021 in Morioka city, Iwate Prefecture. It was organized by the JMSCA (Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association). The athletes competed in combined format of two disciplines of bouldering and lead, simulating the 2024 Paris Olympics format. The winner for men was Tomoa Narasaki and for women was Akiyo Noguchi.
Schedule +MenWomen18 June (Friday)11:10 - 13:35Bouldering Qualification10:40 - 12:55Bouldering Qualification14:30 - 16:20Lead Qualification13:50 - 15:30Lead Qualification19 June (Saturday)13:50 - 15:30Bouldering Final08:50 - 10:30Bouldering Final16:40 - 17:30Lead Final11:40 - 12:30Lead Final
Competition format It was held to simulate the 2024 Paris Olympics format. Eight competitors with the highest scores proceeded to the finals. DisciplinesQualificationsFinalsNotesBoulderingFour boulder problems. Time limit for each boulder was five minutes.Three boulder problems. Time limit for each boulder was four minutes.Score was determined by number of tops, number of zones, attempts to tops, and attempts to zones in decreasing order of importance.LeadA single lead route. Time limit to climb the route was six minutes.A single lead route. Time limit to climb the route was six minutes.Score was determined by the highest point/hold reached.
Scoring
Bouldering TopZoneFor TiebreaksAttempt to TopAttempt to ZoneQualification +25 points +5 points -0.1 point -0.01 pointFinal +33 points +8 points = x 100 /
Lead Hold+Qualification +2.5 points +0.5 pointFinal = x 100 /
Men
Qualifications RankNameBoulderingLeadTotal PointsTop / ZoneAttemptsHold1Tomoaki Takata4T4Z221897.8098.9834+85.5087.69186.682Yuji Inoue4T4Z12998.80100.0031+78.0080.00180.003Sota Amagasa3T4Z101480.0080.9732+80.5082.56163.534Tomoa Narasaki3T3Z3374.7075.6034+85.5087.69163.295Kokoro Fujii3T3Z4474.6075.5034+85.5087.69163.196Rei Kawamata3T3Z5574.5075.4033+83.0085.12160.537Yoshiyuki Ogata3T3Z101074.0074.8933+83.0085.12160.028Katsura Konishi3T3Z9974.0174.9030+75.5077.43152.349Yuya Kitae3T3Z9774.0374.923075.0076.92151.8510Yuta Imaizumi2T3Z51155.0055.6632+80.5082.56138.2311Ao Yurikusa1T3Z21634.8035.22TOP97.50100.00135.2212Ryo Omasa2T2Z9549.1049.6933+83.0085.12134.8213Rei Sugimoto2T2Z5549.5050.103075.0076.92127.0214Taisei Honma1T2Z31029.7030.0635+88.0090.25120.3115Keita Dohi1T3Z41734.6035.0233+83.0085.12120.1416Masahiro Higuchi1T2Z71329.3029.6535+88.0090.25119.9117Kento Yamaguchi1T2Z41029.5029.8532+80.5082.56112.4218Ryoei Nukui1T1Z6525.0025.303280.0082.05107.3519Meichi Narasaki0T2Z --610.0010.1233+83.0085.1295.2420Keita Watabe1T2Z4629.5429.892562.5064.1094.0021Shuta Tanaka0T1Z --55.005.0632+80.5082.5687.62
Finals RankNameBoulderingLeadTotal PointsQual.RankTop / ZoneAttemptsHoldTomoa Narasaki2T3Z4473.60100.0033+83.00100.00200.004Kokoro Fujii2T3Z6673.4099.7233+83.00100.00199.725Yoshiyuki Ogata1T2Z1340.8755.5333+83.00100.00155.5374Tomoaki Takata1T2Z2340.7755.393382.5099.39154.7915Sota Amagasa1T3Z1549.0066.5729+73.0087.95154.5236Katsura Konishi1T2Z1240.8855.5431+78.0093.97149.5187Yuji Inoue1T2Z2340.7755.3930+75.5090.96146.3528Rei Kawamata1T2Z1240.8855.5427+68.0081.92137.476
Women
Qualifications RankNameBoulderingLeadTotal PointsTop / ZoneAttemptsHold1Miho Nonaka4T4Z4499.60100.0040+100.5083.75183.752Hana Koike4T4Z111198.9099.2940+100.5083.75183.043Futaba Ito4T4Z6699.4099.793997.5081.25181.044Akiyo Noguchi3T3Z3374.7075.00TOP120.00100.00175.005Ryu Nakagawa3T3Z6574.4074.693997.5081.25155.946Natsuki Tanii2T4Z41060.0060.2444+110.5092.08152.327Saari Watanabe3T4Z4680.0080.3231+78.0065.00145.328Mei Kotake2T3Z2654.7454.9643+108.0090.00144.969Miku Ishii3T3Z7674.2474.532767.5056.25130.7810Mao Nakamura3T3Z7774.2374.5224+60.5050.41124.9411Mashiro Kuzu2T3Z6954.4054.6132+80.5067.08121.7012Nanako Kura2T3Z2354.7754.992870.0058.33113.3213Mio Nukui2T3Z3554.7054.9227+68.0056.66111.5814Nao Mori1T1Z1124.8924.9935+88.0073.3398.3214Mishika Ishii1T1Z1124.8924.9935+88.0073.3398.3216Risa Ota0T1Z --55.005.0239+98.0081.6686.6817Tomona Takao0T0Z -- --0.000.0039+98.0081.6681.6618Moe Takiguchi0T0Z -- --0.000.003485.0070.8370.8319Ryo Nakajima 0T3Z --1115.0015.0623+58.0048.3363.39
Finals RankNameBoulderingLeadTotal PointsQual.RankTop / ZoneAttemptsHoldAkiyo Noguchi2T3Z4573.60100.0036+90.50100.00200.004Miho Nonaka2T3Z6773.4099.7231+78.0086.18185.911Saari Watanabe1T1Z1133.0044.832050.0055.24100.0874Natsuki Tanii0T1Z --28.0010.8731+78.0086.1897.0565Ryu Nakagawa0T2Z --1015.9021.6025+63.0069.6191.2156Futaba Ito0T2Z --315.9721.692357.5063.5385.2337Hana Koike0T3Z --524.0032.6017+43.0047.5180.1228Mei Kotake0T0Z -- --0.000.0023+58.0064.0864.088
References