Rennell Island, locally known as Mugaba, is the main island of two inhabited islands that make up the Rennell and Bellona Province in the nation state of Solomon Islands. Rennell Island has a land area of and is about long and wide. It is the second largest raised coral atoll in the world with the largest lake in the insular Pacific, Lake Tegano, a lake that is listed as a World Heritage Site. Rennell Island has a population of about 1,840 persons of Polynesian descent who primarily speak Rennellese, Pijin and some English. Rennell and Bellona Islands are two of the few islands in the otherwise Melanesian Solomon Islands archipelago classified as a Polynesian outlier.
The island lies south of Honiara and north-east of Brisbane. The provincial capital, Tigoa, is at the western end of the island.
Bauxite mining and logging on the west side of the island was poorly regulated, resulted in spills, and seriously damaged the ecology and economy of the island between 2011 and 2021.
History
Between 2000 and 1600 BC, people belonging to the Lapita Culture first occupied the island. The next settlement occurred on both Rennell and Bellona around 130 BC, with another major occupation in about 1000 AD. UN Protected areas Programme Later settlement of Rennell occurred prior to 1400 AD by Polynesians from Uvea, now Wallis Island.
Captain Butler of HMS Walpole was the first European to discover the islands in 1801. In 1933 the Templeton Crocker Expedition discovered several endemic species on the islands. During the Pacific campaign of World War II Japanese Rufe floatplanes operated from Lake Tegano until American Catalinas used the lake as a base after 1943. The Battle of Rennell Island was the last major naval battle of the Guadalcanal Campaign which occurred between 29 January 1943 and 30 January 1943. At the end of the war, eight Catalinas were scuttled in the lake. The island was later visited by a series of Danish scientific expeditions.
The present-day inhabitants say their ancestors, Kaitu'u, arrived around 1400AD from Ubea, now Wallis and Futuna Islands, crossed the Pacific Ocean and settled on Rennell and Bellona Islands, in the Solomon Islands. One of the villages in Lake Tegano is called Hutuna which is the Rennellese interpretation of Wallis and Futuna.The Avaiki Connection http://www.avaiki-connection.com/_mgxroot/page_10768.php accessed 5 October 2008
Geography
The islands are of volcanic origin with basement rocks forming between the late Cretaceous and early Eocene. Tectonic movements raised the seabed to allow coral building. The whole Rennell area is thought to have been initially deposited as coralline algal limestone and then dolomitized. This dolomitic reef complex is overlain by younger undolotomized reef limestone. The island is the second largest upraised coral atoll in the world. It is largely unmodified and includes the largest lake in the South Pacific.
The island is about one hour's flight in a twin engine prop aircraft south of Honiara. It is almost totally surrounded by cliffs, with the eastern end dominated by a large lake, while the western end is relatively flat with rolling forested hills. One road, known as the Copperhead Road, traverses the length of the island from the Tigoa airstrip in the west to the Labagu port area in the south, with a branch heading east towards the lake.
Kangava Bay has beautiful white sands beach and coral reef which makes it good for snorkeling.
Lake Tegano
Official Solomon Island maps name this Lake Te Nggano, while locals refer to the lake as Tegano or Tungano or Big Water. The lake is in length and wide, with an area of , which occupies 17.6% of the total area of Rennell Island. The lake is located at East Rennell, the southern portion of Rennell Island, in the central basin which was the old lagoon.
The hard bottom is covered by several meters of suspended mud. The lake has an elevated salt concentration being kept by a subterranean duct system which connects it with the sea.
The water depth is and consists of a mixture of brackish fresh and salt water. The average distance from the lake shore to the ocean is with wildlife predominantly eels and water snakes and a bird breeding area. The lake is listed as a World Heritage Site.
On the easternmost point of the lake is the former World War 2 airbase Tigoa. Information from locals claims that there are nine aircraft at the bottom of the lake, with five visible from a boat.Joseph Puia Niupuni Village, discussion July 2008
Lake Te Nggano was used as a base for flying boats by both Japanese and American forces during the Pacific War (World War II). Japanese Nakajima A6M2-N Rufe floatplanes operated out of Rennell Island until US air and sea superiority made the base untenable. American PBY Catalinas used the lake as a base after 1943. A detachment from the 2nd Marines was sent from New Hebrides and arrived at Lake Tegano on 12 November 1942 to establish a lookout post.
The US forces scuttled eight of the warhorses at the end of hostilities rather than take them home. Reports were made of crash landings due to the coral outcrops within the lake. Members of the local community attempted to retrieve one of the radial engines of the aircraft to use as a generator using only man-power. First it was cut from the wing by diving with snorkels and using hand-tools.
It was then dragged across the coralline rock lake floor by hand-winch. They were overcome in their task by the engine's tremendous weight. They did manage to get it close to the shoreline before giving up, close enough that one of the propeller blades is exposed to the air. Very quickly however, the engine became unusable through corrosion, so further attempts to bring it ashore were abandoned.
Climate The temperature averages with about of rainfall per year and high humidity during both seasons. South-east trade winds prevail from April to the end of November. The island lies within the band of known cyclone paths and is subject to cyclones at relatively frequent intervals. The latest major cyclone to hit Rennell was Nina in 1993.
Flora and fauna
The islands of Rennell and Bellona are unique within the Solomon Islands, sharing similarities with New Caledonia and Australia as much as the Solomons. They are home to several endemic species, including the Rennell starling (Aplonis insularis) which is a species of starling in the family Sturnidae, the bare-eyed white-eye (Woodfordia superciliosa) which is a species of bird in the family Zosteropidae, the Rennell shrikebill (Clytorhynchus hamlini) which is a species of bird in the family Monarchidae, and the Rennell fantail (Rhipidura rennelliana) which is also a species of bird in the family Rhipiduridae. The Solomons white ibis (Threskiornis molucca pygmaeus) is a dwarf subspecies of the Australian white ibis that is endemic to Rennell and Bellona Islands.
Rennell province also has 25 species of ants,Archive.Org https://archive.org/stream/ants_03486/ants_03486_djvu.txt accessed October 2008 the endemic orchid Dendrobium rennellii near Lake Tegano, two endemic species of Pandanus (P. lacustris and P. rennellensis).[] There are also 11 species of bats in the area including the Rennell flying fox (Pteropus rennelli) which is endemic to the island.
Lake Tegano is the only known location for the endemic sea krait Laticauda crockeri (VU), one of only two known freshwater sea snake species in the world. The other species of sea snake in the lake is Laticauda colubrina. There are five species of geckos, four skinks, the Rennell monitor (Varanus juxtindicus) and three snakes, all of which are species with widespread distributions and are typical of the region. There are 27 species of land snails, seven of which are endemic to the island, coconut crab (Birgus latro) (DD) and two other species of land hermit crabs (Coenobita spp.). A total of 731 insects have been identified from collections made at Rennell and Bellona. Moths (Lepidoptera) have the greatest number of species (246 in total) with 35 species and 25 subspecies exclusive to Rennell and Bellona. Renbel has no indigenous malaria, cane toads, vipers or crocodiles.Unep-wcmc Accessed October 2008
Culture
Due to the tropical climate and thinly soiled coralline substrate, sheep and cattle do not thrive here. Villagers wishing to harvest seafood have the arduous task of climbing the surrounding cliffs for the return journey to the coast. Once at the coast, they are bound to harvest only finned and scaled seafood, not shellfish, lobsters or other marine creatures.Speech on tradition, Matahenua Village, West Rennell 25 August 2008 The serious deficiency in diet prompted the Solomon Islands government to seed Lake Tegano with tilapia fish. These seem to have thrived in the brackish conditions and are now a staple part of the diet.
The locals also talk about a condition they refer to as "The Cold". They believe that this ailment is responsible for the onset of a debilitating mental illness. Adults who have no history of mental illnesses or drug abuse have been known to slide into a state of melancholy, requiring weeks of intensive treatment.
The wantok system creates huge pressures on the people of Renbel, more so than many other provinces. You will often hear the locals remark "Oh, that’s the Avaiki way". This refers to the intrinsic behaviour associated with the wantok system and translates to "What is yours, is mine"
The locals play sport most days of the week in the afternoons. Soccer, rugby, volleyball & netball are the sports of choice.
The natives call Rennell "MUGAVA" and they call Bellona "MUNGIKI". They then combine the last three letters of each Island and come up with a word called AVAIKI. They have a Rugby and Netball team called Avaiki.Advice from local Elder to RAMSI, TNT Village, August 2008
The locals do not have much respect for chiefs but most respect the Church leaders.
When an outsider enters a village there appears to be no apparent hierarchy and it is acceptable to talk to either men or women. The people who hold important jobs here are the religious leaders and teachers. The chiefs are not really respected here and are said to wield no real power. This view of chiefs as powerless is sparked by grandchildren of the commoners, who are well educated these days and want to retaliate against the traditional views held by their ancestors.
Provincial government
The second island that makes up Renbel province is Bellona Island (pop. under 1000) thereby giving rise to the provincial name REN-BEL.
The Renbel province covers a land area of . The province or Renbell was established in 1993 where it was revealed that 99% of the land is customarily owned with only the main road and Bellona airfield being owned by the government.
Tigoa (Tingoa) is the capital for Rennell Island and located at the Rennell Airfield. It is referred by the locals as TNT and has a population of about 400 people. A number of residences are built either side of the airfield. Both the Royal Solomon Island Police and the Provincial Government offices are stationed at Tigoa.
The traditional chief system does not operate in the province.
The Provincial Government are tasked with providing health, education, transport, power, water and other basic services. They are funded with about $128,000 per month from the Central Government to do this.
The Government structure has 10 wards each with elected members:
Rennell Ward Ward 1 – Hutuna, Tegano Ward 2 – Niupani, Tebaitahe, East Lake Ward 3 – Lughu, Avatai Ward 4 – Teabamagu, Kanava, Tahanuku Ward 5 – Ngogona, Tingoa (TNT), Moreno & Hatagua (Airfield Area) Ward 6 – Kaagua, Tepogima
Bellona Ward Ward 7 – Matangi Ward 8 – East Ghongau Ward 9 – West Ghongau Ward 10 –Sa’aiho
The Provincial Government is also responsible for the appointment of area constables to police local by-laws.
Agriculture