Christian Core (born 5 October 1974) is an Italian professional rock climber who specialises in bouldering and competition bouldering. He is known for being the first-ever person in the world to climb an boulder, , in 2008. As a competition climber, Core won the Bouldering World Cup twice in 1999 and 2002, and also won the Bouldering World Championship in 2003.
Climbing career
Competition climbing
In 1999 Core stopped competing in the Lead Climbing World Cup and started participating in the Bouldering World Cup, organized by UIAA in that year for the first time in history. He immediately won the Cup, and again in 2002. In 2003, he earned the title of World Champion in bouldering.
Bouldering
He has ascended several very hard boulders in Italy near Bobbio Pellice, Varazze, and Triora. In 2008, he climbed , the first-ever boulder graded in history, and was for 8 years, the most difficult boulder in the world. In 2011, Adam Ondra repeated the ascent and confirmed the grade, however, in 2015, Core announced that a hold broke on Gioia, which he could only partially repair, and which slightly lowered the grade.
Personal life In 2009, he married the climber Stella Marchisio.
Rankings
Climbing World Cup 1995 1996 1997 1998 Lead 10 11 9 17
1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 Bouldering 1 8 7 1 8 16 4 4 13 16 54 26 54 32
Climbing World Championships 1997 1999 2001 2003 2005 2007 2009 2011 Lead 7 - - - - - - - Bouldering - - 3 1 18 10 10 33
Climbing European Championships 1998 2000 2002 2004 2007 2008 2010 Lead 10 - - - - - - Bouldering - - 1 - 16 10 7
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup Bouldering Season Gold Silver Bronze Total 1999 2 1 3 2000 1 1 2 2001 1 1 2002 1 1 2 2003 1 1 2004 1 1 2005 1 1 2006 1 1 2010 1 1 Total 3 6 4 13
Rock climbing Redpointed routes Core redpointed and onsighted routes.
Boulder problems Core redpointed and flashed boulder problems.
8C+/V16: – Varazze (ITA) – 2008 – First ascent. Adam Ondra repeated it on 6 December 2011 and confirmed the 8C+ grade. Third ascent by Nalle Hukkataival
8C/V15: Kimera – Rifugio Barbara (Bobbio Pellice, ITA) – 2006 – First ascent
8B+/V14: Toky – Val Ellero (ITA) – 2009 – First ascent New Base Line – Magic Wood (CHE) – 2006 Beautiful mind – Albarracin (ESP) – 2006 – First ascent Ajna – Varazze (ITA) – 2004 – First ascent Toguro – Varazze (ITA) – 2003 – First ascent Dreamtime – Cresciano (CHE) – 2003 – Fifth ascent (first ascent by Fred Nicole) Taklimakam plus – Varazze (ITA) – 2002 – First ascent Shadowfax – Chironico (CHE) – 2002 – Third ascent (first ascent by Dave Graham)
Film i Core, my climbing family – 2012 – Regia di Angelo Poli – 45'
See also List of grade milestones in rock climbing History of rock climbing Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals
References
Bibliografia
External links