Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza (born September 7, 1980), best known as Patxi Usobiaga, is a Basque Spanish professional rock climber, competition climber, sports climber and boulderer. He is known for winning two overall Lead Climbing World Cups in a row, and for being the first-ever climber in history to onsight an route.
Biography Usobiaga started climbing in Atxarte when he was 10 years old. For four years he was belayed by his father. When he was 15, he climbed his first graded route, ConanDax Librarian, in Araotz. When he was 18 he redpointed his first graded route, Parva Naturalia, in Araotz.
From 1997 to 1999 he participated in youth competition climbing events. In 2000, he started competing at the Lead Climbing World Cup. In 2003 he earned his first gold medal in Edinburgh. When he was 26 he earned his first Lead climbing World Cup. Next year, he won his second one. Due to these outstanding achievements he was awarded the Salewa Rock Award in 2007.
In 2009 he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Qinghai (CHN). At the end of 2009 he underwent a shoulder surgery and after three months of rehabilitative therapy he started training again.
In June 2010 a car accident caused a painful slipped disk. In 2011, he announced his retirement from competitions.
He climbed 267 routes graded between 8a and 9a+, 158 of which were onsighted. He was the first climber who onsighted a 8c+ route (Bizi Euskaraz, in Etxauri, 2007).
Rankings
Climbing World Cup 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 Lead 67 4 5 6 1 1 4 2 4
Climbing World Championships 1999 2001 2003 2005 2007 2009 Lead 61 49 2 2 2 1 Bouldering - - - - - 21
Climbing European Championships 2002 2004 2006 2008 2010 Lead 20 9 38 1 6
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup Lead Season Gold Silver Bronze Total 2003 1 1 2 2004 2 2 2005 1 1 2 2006 1 4 1 6 2007 1 3 1 5 2008 1 1 2 2009 1 3 4 2010 1 1 2 Total 6 13 6 25
Rock climbing Number of ascended routes: 4 14 31 (1 of which onsighted) 42 (7 of which onsighted) 87 and 8b+ (68 of which onsighted)
Redpointed routes :
Pachamama – Oliana (ESP) – November 10, 2017 La novena enmienda – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 3, 2007 La Rambla – Siurana (ESP) – November 22, 2007 – Fifth ascent Realization – Céüse (FRA) – July 29, 2004 – Third ascent
: PuntX – Gorges du Loup (FRA) – September 10, 2010 Hades – Nassereith (AUT) – August 23, 2009 – Redpointed on second attempt. First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2008 Action directe – Frankenjura () – October 24, 2008 – Eleventh ascent Nice to eat you – Pierrot beach (FRA) – July 22, 2008 – Second ascent. First ascent by Mike Fussilier Fabela Pa La Enmienda – Santa Linya (ESP) – March 22, 2008 Mendeku – Egino (ESP) – December 16, 2007 – Second ascent. First ascent by Iker Pou Fuck The system – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 9, 2007 – First ascent Esclatamasters – (ESP) – December 7, 2007 – Third ascent. First ascent by Ramón Julián Puigblanqué Faxismoaren txontxogiloak – Etxauri (ESP) – December 22, 2007 – First ascent Begi Puntuan – Etxauri (ESP) – December 1, 2006 – First ascent Kinematix – Gorges du Loup (FRA) – June 14, 2006 Psikoterapia – Valdegobia (ESP) – July 8, 2004 – First ascent Iñi Ameriketan – Baltzola (ESP) – April 1, 2003 Il Domani – Baltzola (ESP) – March 21, 2003 – First ascent
Onsighted routes : Bizi Euskaraz – Etxauri (ESP) – December 11, 2007 – First ascent and first-ever 8c+ onsight in history. Project by Ekaitz Maiz.
: Absinth – Sparchen (AUT) – July 25, 2010 Nuska – Baltzola (ESP) – August 1, 2008 Home sweet home – Pierrot Beach (FRA) – July 20, 2008 Omerta – Urnersee () – July 15, 2008 Mosca cullonera – Montsant (ESP) – November 30, 2007 Pata negra – Rodellar (Bierge, (ESP) – October 7, 2006 Gaua – Lezain (ESP) – October 10, 2005
See also List of grade milestones in rock climbing History of rock climbing Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals
References
External links