In rock-climbing, a first free ascent (FFA) is the first redpoint, onsight or flash of a single-pitch, multi-pitch or bouldering climbing-route that did not involve using aid equipment to help progression or resting — the ascent must thus be performed in either a sport, a traditional, or a free solo manner. First-free-ascents that set new grade milestones are important events in rock climbing history, and are listed below. While sport climbing has dominated grade milestones since the mid-1980s (i.e. are now the highest grades), milestones for modern traditional-climbing, free-solo-climbing, onsighted & flashed-ascents, are also listed.
A climbing route's grade is provisional until enough climbers have repeated it to establish a "consensus". At the highest grades, this can take years as few climbers are capable of repeating these routes. For example, in 2001, Realization was considered the world's first , however, the first repeat of the 1996 route Open Air, which only happened in 2008, suggested that it was possibly the first . Open Air has had no further repeats, and has had holds broken since 1996, whereas Realization has had many ascents and is thus a "consensus" 9a+. Thus, the 2nd to 4th ranked candidates are also recorded.
As of June 2026, the technically hardest-ever redpoint of a single-pitch rock-climbing route is at the grade of for men and the grade of for women. The technically hardest onsight is at the grade of for men and for women. The technically hardest boulder solved is at the boulder grade of for men and for women. The technically hardest redpoint of a multi-pitch (or big wall) route is at the grade of . The technically hardest free solo of a single-pitch route is at the grade of , and the technically hardest free solo of a multi-pitch (or big wall) route is at .
Single-pitch routes Redpointed by men
Silence – Flatanger Municipality (NOR) – September 3, 2017 – First ascent by Adam Ondra, who described it as "much harder than anything else" he had previously done, and cautiously suggested the 9c rating for the 45 m route. Is unrepeated (January 2026).
DNA – Verdon Gorge (FRA) – April 29, 2022 – First ascent by Sébastien Bouin who proposed the grade of 9c, saying "Comparing this route to Bibliographie, Move, Beyond [Integral], it seems a step ahead", and "To choose 9c is to take a risk". Is unrepeated (January 2026).
(also Project Big) – Flatanger Municipality (NOR) – September 20, 2023 – First ascent by Jakob Schubert who worked it with Adam Ondra and after consulting with him, proposed 9c saying it was "definitely harder" than Perfecto Mundo a "benchmark" 9b+ route. Is unrepeated (January 2026).
Duality of Man – Dry Canyon, Arizona (USA) – March 6, 2025 – First ascent by Sean Bailey who worked on the project for several years, and is the first-ever proposed 9c in North America. It is unrepeated (January 2026).
– Flatanger Municipality () – October 4, 2012 – First-ever 9b+ in history, by Adam Ondra; grade confirmed by Stefano Ghisolfi (2020). Third ascent was by Seb Bouin (2022), who felt a kneebar made it closer to (5.15b/c); fourth was by Alex Megos (2024).
La Dura Dura – Oliana (ESP) – February 7, 2013 – Second-ever 9b+, by Adam Ondra; first-ever 9b+ repeat by Chris Sharma (March 23, 2013).
Vasil Vasil – Moravský Kras (CZE) – December 4, 2013 – Third-ever 9b+, by Adam Ondra. Remains unrepeated (January 2025).
Perfecto Mundo – Margalef (ESP) – May 9, 2018 – Fourth 9b+, by Alexander Megos; repeat by Stefano Ghisolfi (2018), and Jakob Schubert (2019); considered a "benchmark" 9b+ route.
Jumbo Love – Clark Mountain (US) – September 11, 2008 – First-ever in history, by Chris Sharma. Repeated by Ethan Pringle (2015), Jonathan Siegrist (2018), and Seb Bouin (2022). – Siurana (ESP) – December 17, 2008 – Second-ever , by Chris Sharma. First-ever 9b repeat by Adam Ondra (2010) (was Ondra's first 9b). Neanderthal – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 18, 2009 – Third-ever , by Chris Sharma. Repeated by Jakob Schubert (2018), and Adam Ondra (2019).
Open Air – Schleier Waterfall (AUT) – 1996 – First ascent by Alexander Huber, who proposed ; it has only been repeated once in 2008 by Adam Ondra who felt it was , but the breaking of holds means it is uncertain whether Ondra did the same route. Mutation – Raven Tor, Peak District (ENG) – 1998 – First ascent by Steve McClure, who graded it . Will Bosi completed the first repeat in October 2021 and suggested the route is , or even harder. Realization – Céüse (FRA) – July 2001 – First ascent by Chris Sharma. First consensus in history. La Rambla – Siurana (ESP) – March 2003 – First ascent by Ramón Julián Puigblanqué. Second consensus in history.
Action Directe – Frankenjura () – 1991 – First-ever consensus 9a in history, by Wolfgang Güllich, who originally graded it 8c+, but now the "benchmark" for 9a. Om – Endstal, Berchtesgaden (DEU) – 1992 – Second-ever 9a, by Alexander Huber. – Saint Loup (SUI) – 1993 – Third-ever 9a, by Fred Nicole. Hugh – Les Eaux-Claires (FRA) – 1993 – Fourth-ever 9a, by Fred Rouhling.
Liquid Ambar – Pen Trwyn, (WAL) – May 1990 – First ascent by Jerry Moffatt who graded , but subsequent repeats have regraded it to 8c+. Hubble – Raven Tor, Peak District (ENG) – June 1990 – Considered first-ever consensus in history, by Ben Moon; later considered a possible first 8c+/9a, or even the first-ever 9a. Just Do It – Smith Rock (US) – 1992 – Considered second-ever consensus (after Hubble), by Jean-Baptiste Tribout. Super Plafond – Volx, (FRA) – 1994 – Considered third-ever consensus , by Jean-Baptiste Tribout.
– Frankenjura (DEU) – 1987 – First-ever consensus in history, by Wolfgang Güllich. Anaïs et le canabis – Saint Loup (SUI) – 1988 – Second-ever consensus , by Fred Nicole. Agincourt – Buoux (FRA) – 1989 – Third-ever consensus , by Ben Moon. Maginot Line (Plafond) – Volx (FRA) – 1989 – Fourth-ever consensus , by Ben Moon.
Punks in the Gym – Mount Arapiles (AUS) – 1985 – First-ever consensus in history, by Wolfgang Güllich. La Rage de Vivre – Buoux (FRA) – 1986 – Second-ever consensus , by . To Bolt or Not to Be – Smith Rock (US) – 1986 – Third-ever consensus , by Jean-Baptiste Tribout. Le Minimum – Buoux (FRA) – 1986 – Fourth-ever consensus , by .
Kanal im Rücken – Frankenjura (DEU) – 1984 – First-ever consensus in history, by Wolfgang Güllich. Les Mains Sales – Buoux (FRA) – 1985 – Second-ever consensus , by . Le fluide enchanté – Mouriès (FRA) – 1985 – Third-ever consensus , by . La Rose et le Vampire – Buoux (FRA) – 1985 – Fourth-ever consensus , by .
– Altmühltal (DEU) – 1983 – First-ever consensus in history, by Jerry Moffatt. Le Bidule – Le Saussois (FRA) – 1984 – Second-ever consensus , by .
Pre-sport era
The notable first ascents to propose a new highest-grade prior to The Face were traditional climbing routes:
Requiem – Dumbarton Rock (SCO) – July 6th, 1983 (possibly prior to Moffatt's ascent of The Face) – Originally graded E7 by Dave "Cubby" Cuthbertson, and later upgraded to E8. Current consensus is that it features 8a+ grade climbing, though Cubby has declined to define a sport grade, citing a difference in the style of ascent to sport climbing.
Grand Illusion – Sugar Loaf, Lake Tahoe, CA (US) – 1979 – First-ever consensus in history, by Tony Yaniro. Cosmic Debris – Yosemite Valley, CA (US) – May, 1980 – Early 8a led by Bill Price. Sphinx Crack – South Platte, CO (US) – April, 1981 – Early 8a led by Steve Hong. 13 Boulevard du Vol – Rochers de Freyr, (BEL) – 1981 – Early consensus , by Arnould t'Kint.
The Phoenix – Yosemite, CA (US) – 1977 – Considered the first-ever consensus in history, by Ray Jardine (used his new cams). Le Toit – Baou de Quatre Ouro (FRA) – 1981 – Second-ever consensus in history, by Patrick Edlinger. Le Haine – La Turbie (FRA) – March, 1981 – Third-ever consensus in history, by Patrick Berhault. Chimpanzodrome – Le Saussois (FRA) – April, 1981 – Fourth-ever consensus in history, by Jean-Pierre Bouvier.
Psycho Roof – Eldorado, CO (US) – 1975 – Estimated as the first-ever in history, by Steve Wunsch; only one ascent, due to large broken flake, and was possibly harder than 7c in 1975. The Pirate – Suicide Rock, CA – (US) – 1978 – Early 7c (5.12d) by Tony Yaniro. Iron Cross – Shawangunks, NY – (US) – 1978 – Early 7c (5.12d) by John Bragg. Genesis – Eldorado, CO – (US) – 1979 May – Early 7c (5.12d) by Jim Collins. Nymphodalle – Les Calanques (FRA) – 1979 – Sometimes considered first-ever consensus in history, by Patrick Edlinger.
Paisano Overhang – Suicide Rock, (US) – 1974 – First-ever consensus climbs, by John Long. Super Crack – Shawangunks, (US) – 1974 Oct – Long considered the first-ever consensus by Steve Wunsch. Hangdog Flyer – Royal Arches Yosemite NP – (US) – 1976 Sept – Early 7b+ by Ray Jardine and John Lakey. Super Crack – Shawangunks, (US) – 1977 – First-ever repeat of a consensus , by Ron Kauk.
Kansas City – Shawangunks, NY (US) – 1973 – One of the first-ever 5.12b/c climbs in history, by John Bragg. Fish Crack – Yosemite (US) – 1975 May – One of the first-ever climbs in history, by Henry Barber. Hotline (Pitch two) – Worst Error Yosemite (US) – 1975 – Early consensus 5.12b pitch, FFA by Ron Kauk and John Bachar.
Thimble – Needles, SD, (US) – 1961 – First-ever , free soloed by John Gill. Macabre Roof – Ogden, Utah, (US) – 1967 – First-ever roped 7a+ (5.12a) in history, flashed by Greg Lowe. English Hanging Gardens – Big Rock, Lake Perris CA (US) – 1970 – Likely third-ever 7a+, by John Gosling. Constable's Overhang – Wilton, (ENG) – 1973 – Early as is graded E5 6b, by Hank Pasquill. The Throne – Shawangunks, NY (US) – 1973 – Early lead by John Stannard.
Foops – Shawangunks, NY (US) – 1967 October – Often considered a first-ever consensus , by John Stannard. Messner Slab – Pilastro di Mezzo, Sas dla Crusc/Heiligkreuzkofel, (ITA) – 1968 July – Now considered very early , onsight by Reinhold Messner. Schwager Nordwand – Schrammsteine, Saxon Switzerland, (DEU) – 1970 – Notable early IXb, by Bernd Arnold.
Wall of Horrors – Almscliff (UK) – June 28, 1961 – Very early E3 6a free soloed by Allan Austin. Königshängel – Friensteine, Saxon Switzerland, (DEU) – August 12, 1965 – Early Saxon IXa by . Crack of Doom – City of Rocks ID (US) – 1965 – Early 5.11c led by Greg Lowe.
: Demon Rib – Black Rocks (ENG) – May 13, 1949 – Sometimes considered the first-ever 6c (E3 5c) by Peter Harding. Schwager Talweg – Schrammsteine, Saxon Switzerland (DEU) – August 31, 1952 – Even with shoulder stands at all three cruxes, 6c (Saxon VIIIc) free climbing was led by Harry Rost. Nordwand – Rohnspitze Affensteine, Saxon Switzerland (DEU) – Sept 14, 1956 – Second Saxon VIIIc using one shoulder stand, (IXa All Free today), led by Wulf Scheffler. Goliath – Burbage South Edge, (ENG) – 1958 – Very early , harder today at E4 6a; onsight by Don Whillans.
Suicide Wall, Route 1 – Idwal Slabs (WAL) – 1945 – One of the first-ever 6b+ (E2 5c) by Chris Preston. Rebitsch-Spiegl (Pitch Two) – Fleischbank Wilder Kaiser (AUT) – June 20, 1946 – Early 6b+ (UIAA VII) lead by . Right Eliminate – Curbar Edge (ENG) – 1951 – Early 6b+ (E3 5c), onsight by Joe Brown.
Rostkante – Hauptwiesenstein Bielatel, Saxon Switzerland (DEU) –1922 – First consensus 6b (Saxon VIIIb, UIAA VII) by Hans Rost. Gemeinschaftsweg – Wilder Zinne Saxon Switzerland (DEU) – 1938 – Early 6b by Richard Dressler. Dolch – Rohnspitze Affensteine Saxon Switzerland (DEU) – June 5 1947 – Early Saxon VIIIb (UIAA VII) by Karl-Heinz Gonda.
Westkante – Wilderkopf Affensteine, Saxon Switzerland (DEU) – 1918 – First-ever 6a+ (Saxon VIIIa) by .
Südriss – Kreuzturm Affensteine, Saxon Switzerland (DEU) – 1910 – First-ever 6a (Sax VIIc) by .
Perrykante – Spannagelturm, Bielatel, Saxon Switzerland (DEU) – June 1, 1906 – Often considered the first-ever 5b, even with two shoulder stands (Saxon VIIb then, harder if redpointed), by Oliver Perry Smith.