Textile stabilization is a conservation method for fiber and yarn-based cloth intended to mitigate damage, prevent degradation and preserve structural integrity. Stabilization is part of a broad set of techniques in the field of conservation and restoration of textiles typically undertaken by a specialist or textile conservator. Appropriate treatment is determined through risk assessment and close examination of a textile's characteristics and the nature of the damage. Organic and synthetic fibers become weak due to age, handling, and environmental exposure and display physical deterioration such as fraying, planar distortion, loss, and change in surface character. Treatment involves reinforcing tensile strength and reintegration of parts for aesthetic, functional, and historic preservation. Methods can include stitching, darning, reweaving, and the attachment of supports through overlays and underlays. Hand-sewing follows the mantra of “gently does it” using fine needles, supple yarns, and a light touch. Heavily damaged and fragile fabrics often require stabilization through adhesive consolidation, though this is less common. It is essential that conservators consider physical and chemical compatibility along with future treatability in choosing a stabilization technique.
Deterioration of textiles
Types of fibers The fibers that make up textiles impact the types and rate of deterioration. There are four fiber types.
Plant: Stems, leaves, seeds Animal: hair, wool, silk Synthetic: rayon, cellulose acetate, triacetate, natural rubber, nylon, polyester, polyurethanes Metal: gold, silver, copper alloys
Decisions about appropriate textile stabilization are most effective when the fibers are identified. The primary method of determining a fiber type is through polarized light microscopy. Simple compound microscopes, solubility, and chemical tests can also be employed. The Museum of Fine Arts Boston created a Conservation & Art Materials Encyclopedia Online that includes a fiber reference image library that can aid in fiber identification.
Agents of deterioration Textiles deteriorate naturally as the fibers age. Managing the rate of deterioration is the goal when caring for textiles. External forces can increase the amount of deterioration in fabrics. In addition to aging, the following agents contribute to decay.
Light and temperature impact the speed of deterioration, especially in combination with other agents of decay. Exposure of any length to light causes fading. Light both visible and UV can bleach and dry textiles as well as fade color. It is recommended that light is kept at 50 lux for textiles while on display. The length of exposure to light is determined by the type of textile and the object's current condition. Physical agents of decay include the natural breakdown of biological material, which causes fabrics to become more brittle as they age. Humidity is a factor that impacts textile fibers. Loss of moisture decreases the elasticity and increases brittleness. An environment that is too humid encourages pest activity and the growth of mold. Pests affect the physical makeup of textiles by eating fibers, and this destabilizes the fabrics. Pest activity can also discolor materials. Mold weakens and stains textiles. Chemical deterioration of textiles is caused by a variety of interactions. For example, the interaction of fibres with metals, pollutants, adhesives and other even other fibers can cause deterioration. Oxidation of metal threads or adornments can discolor and tarnish textiles due to the chemical reaction between the oxygen in the air and the fibers. Pollution impacts textiles. Pollution can come from the environment or the actual textile manufacturing process. These pollutants include pollen, mold, skin cells, ash, dirt and metal dust. Sources can include the museum exhibit and storage materials and air coming in from outside the museum. Materials used in storage may chemically react with the natural off-gassing that occurs as textiles decay.
Methods Localized and overall support Fabric may be used to provide support for the garment by stabilizing weak sections or by creating a backing or lining for the piece. Darning may be utilized on coarsely-woven fabrics with localized areas of damage.
Fabric properties Should not cause damage through friction with the original fabric Be of similar or lighter weight than the original fabric. Match the original fabric with consideration of the loss of color or sheen Be of a tight enough weave to exclude dust if being used as a barrier
Overlay Translucent or sheer fabrics are used to stabilize the textile without altering its appearance. This is typically done using nylon netting, silk crepeline, or polyester Tetex. Overlay is generally applied to textiles too fragile to withstand localized stitching methods. Overlay materials may be stitched to a more stable backing fabric.
Materials and technique Many variables impact decisions about thread weight, stitching method, and stitch length. Some of these variables include "the size of the loss, desired aesthetic and type of stitching thread." The conservator must weigh the impact of the stitching on the textile. Another consideration is the spacing of the stitches. Higher density stitching is more robust but less elastic and creates more holes in the fabric. Low-density stitching is weaker, is more flexible, and produces fewer holes. Conservation stitching must balance the needs of the textile in question with the impact the process of stitching will have on the object. A best practice is to plan out the intended stitches and utilize any existing stitching holes in the textile. It is essential that all methods of stabilizing the textile be appropriately documented. Stitching methods: There are many methods of stitching used in textile conservation. A great resource with videos on each method can be found on the CCI video "Stitches Used in Textile Conservation." Whip stitch is employed to join two fabrics. If the stabilizing fabric is not wide enough to cover the entire loss area, the whip stitch can join two pieces of stabilizer or any two fabrics.selvages. Straight stitch attaches a stabilizing fabric to large textiles and evenly distributes the weight hold large textiles to a new backing fabric while distributing the weight of the textile evenly. The stitch is small, nearly invisible on the top of the textile with a longer stitch length on the back. Herringbone stitch secures the edges of a textile to a backing fabric. This stitch is also a flexible way to join more than one layer of fabric. Herrigbone stitch is similar to a cross stitch with interlocking stitches. Slip-stitch is used to secure a backing fabric and is nearly invisible on the right side of the fabric. Couching is the most commonly used stitching method in textile stabilization. Torn, frayed, or weak areas can be secured to a support fabric with couching. Generally, a 5mm stitch spacing will give stability and be quicker to stitch than a closer spacing. Darning stitch is used to cover areas of loss and prevent further degradation. Laid couching is a long straight stitch, held in place with short perpendicular stitches. Brick couching is a short stitch placed over one or several threads and sewn in a brick-work like pattern. Thread types cotton thread is the most commonly used thread for stabilizing textiles. Fine polyester is also acceptable.
Damage analysis Conservation science plays a large role in damage analysis of textiles offering the opportunity to investigate the properties of textile materials less invasively. Organoleptic examination or sensory analysis is the most basic form of investigation for textiles. This can include visible damage as well as smells that indicate pollutants, humidity, and decomposition of organic materials. Sampling should be used minimally to help with the inspection of fibers. Sampling requires the extraction of a small amount of the material. Inspection of fibers can include Fourier transform infrared (FTIR), Raman, and attenuated total reflectance (ATR) spectroscopy, “When sampling a work of art is deemed appropriate, scientists routinely use scanning electron microscopy–energy dispersive spectroscopy (SEM-EDS), X-ray diffraction (XRD), and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR).” Glenn Alan Gates 2014. “Discovering the material secrets of art: Tools of cultural heritage science.” American Ceramic Society Bulletin, Vol. 93, No. 7, 2014. pp. 20-27. (ATR): attenuated total reflectance is a sampling technique used in conjunction with infrared spectroscopy which enables samples to be examined directly in the solid or liquid state without further preparation."FT-IR Spectroscopy—Attenuated Total Reflectance (ATR)" (PDF). Perkin Elmer Life and Analytical Sciences. 2005. Archived from the original (PDF) on 2007-02-16. Retrieved 2007-01-26. This process is ideal for optically dense materials. (FTIR): Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy is a technique used to obtain an infrared spectrum of absorption or emission of a solid, liquid or gas. An FTIR spectrometer simultaneously collects high-resolution spectral data over a wide spectral range.Griffiths, P.; de Hasseth, J. A. (18 May 2007). Fourier Transform Infrared Spectrometry (2nd ed.). Wiley-Blackwell. ISBN 978-0-471-19404-0. This process requires computer processing to convert raw data into usable results related to wavelengths that indicate how materials absorb or emit infrared light. (SEM-EDS): scanning electron microscopy–energy dispersive spectroscopy is used for directly studying the surfaces of solid objects, that utilizes a beam of focused electrons of relatively low energy as an electron probe that is scanned in a regular manner over the specimen. The electron source and electromagnetic lenses that generate and focus the beam are similar to those described for the transmission electron microscope (TEM). The action of the electron beam stimulates the emission of high-energy backscattered electrons and low-energy secondary electrons from the surface of the specimen.Britannica, T. Editors of Encyclopaedia (2018, November 15). Electron microscopy. Encyclopedia Britannica. https://www.britannica.com/technology/electron-microscopy data from this process can be used to create 3D renderings of materials. (XRD): X-ray diffraction is a phenomenon in which the atoms of a crystal, by virtue of their uniform spacing, cause an interference pattern of the waves present in an incident beam of X rays. The atomic planes of the crystal act on the X rays in exactly the same manner as does a uniformly ruled grating on a beam of light.Britannica, T. Editors of Encyclopaedia (2016, April 6). Polycrystal. Encyclopedia Britannica. https://www.britannica.com/science/polycrystal X-ray signals can be used to map estimate the concentration of elements in the sample. Microscopic Examination offers the ability to see the damage that is invisible to the naked eye, as well as aid in identifying specific materials. The identification of fibers “may not only adduce the origin of an artifact, for example, but can also serve as a predictor of behavior and so is essential in allowing an informed decision on conservation protocol.