São Jorge (; Portuguese for 'Saint George') is an island in the central group of the Azores archipelago and part of the autonomous region of Portugal. It is separated from its nearest neighbours (Pico and Faial islands) by the Pico-São Jorge Channel; the three islands are often referred colloquially as the Triângulo ("Triangle") group or just "The Triangle". São Jorge is a relatively long thin island with tall cliffs, whose 8,381 inhabitants are concentrated on various geological debris fields (fajãs) along the north and south coasts; from east to west, the island is long and, north to south, wide: its area is .

History

It is unclear when the first explorers discovered the island of São Jorge; as part of the politics of human occupation, the Azores were populated after 1430 (probably 1439) through the initiative of Prince Henry the Navigator. 23 April, known as the feast day of Saint George, has been cited by historians as the reason for the island's name, although this is likely conjecture. Genovese and Catalan maps of the 14th century originally designated the long, slender island "São Jorge", a designation that was maintained by Infante D. Henrique when settlers from northern Europe began to colonize the island (around 1460, or twenty years after it was first sighted).

Although unclear, Azorean chroniclers believe that settlement on the island concentrated around the two communities of Velas and Calheta, and developed into the interior. It was in 1460 that the construction of the first church dedicated to São Jorge occurred in the area of Velas, from the testaments of Infante D. Henrique. What is certain is that the island was populated by the time that João Vaz Corte Real, the Donatary-Captain of Angra do Heroísmo (Terceira) obtained the captaincy of the island, by contract on 4 May 1483. By 1500, the settlement of Velas was elevated from villa to municipality (giving rise to the supposition that Velas was the first center on the island). By 1659, the parochial church had already undergone public restoration, that gave origin to the present church in that municipality.

After an unsuccessful adventure to the island of Flores, the Flemish nobleman Willem van der Haegen (later known as Guilherme da Silveira) moved to the area of Topo where he established and founded a local community, in 1480. After living there for several years he died and was buried in the chapel of the Casa dos Tiagos. Topo was eventually elevated to capital of the municipality by 1510, but lost this title to Calheta on June 3, 1534. During this period, the island was wild and many of the roads difficult or non-existent between the communities, resulting in isolated villages located along the coast. Connections between these communities developed by sea, and the better provisioned ports were likely to develop economically. This was the case with Calheta, Urzelina and Velas; the sites, although farther from the Terceira (the towns are located on the opposite coast), were preferred way-points due to secure and sheltered ports, with good anchorage and providing many goods and services. The growth of the population was rapid, and by the mid-17th century, São Jorge had approximately 3000 inhabitants and three towns: Velas, Topo and Calheta. The island demonstrated a strong economic vitality: in addition to wine, corn, and yam, it was also an important exporter of woad to Flanders and other countries in Europe.

The dynastic crisis (1580) caused by the ascension of King Philip II of Spain (King Philip I of Portugal) had consequences on the island, since gentry supported (along with those on Terceira) the pretender to the throne, António, Prior of Crato. King António reigned on the continent for about twenty days, until he was defeated at the Battle of Alcântra, whereupon he moved his court to Terceira Island and governed in opposition until 1583. The Habsburg-supported King Phillip finally defeated his forces at sea at the Battle of Ponta Delgada between July 25–26, 1582, and the garrisons in São Jorge only capitulated to the forces of Castillo after the fall of Terceira in 1583.

Following 1583, the island experienced a period of relative isolation, partially due to the poor quality of its ports and its limited economic importance. After the Spanish occupation, it was largely abandoned and its inhabitants were left to survive a meager existence. The island did not escape Atlantic piracy: the islanders were subject to attacks by English and French privateers in 1589 and 1590, raiders after 1590 (from the Barbary coast and lands occupied by the Turks) and during the 17th and 18th centuries (mostly around Calheta). In 1625, the inhabitants of Fajã de São João were captured by pirates and likely sold into slavery. The tranquillity around the island was also broken on September 20, 1708, when the town of Velas was attacked by French pirates under the command of René Duguay-Trouin. The population of the community resisted for twenty-four hours, but eventually the pirates made shore where they disembarked. The resistance, commanded by Sergeant-major Amaro Soares de Sousa, occurred around the village of Banquetas saving the other villages from occupation and pillaging.

During the Portuguese Civil War, Liberalist forces were stationed on the island after May 10, 1831. Generally, the island's residents have lived for many years in isolation, interrupted by rare visits from the authorities, commercial boats from the local islands, and the occasional nobleman who has come to contemplate the local scenery.

With the inauguration of its ports, and the airport/aerodrome (April 23, 1982) commercial ventures have grown (especially the export of the local cheese), the expansion of animal husbandry, the fisheries and a small crafts industry.

Geography

Physical geography

Unique among the islands of Azores, São Jorge is uncharacteristically long and slender and susceptible to ocean erosion. The island was built on fissural volcanism associated with the plate tectonics of the mid-Atlantic Ridge and a transform fault that extends from the Ridge to the island of São Miguel (referred to as the São Jorge Fault). Through successive fissural eruptions the island was built up: the only remnants of these forces are the line of volcanic cones that extend along the central ridge (approximately 700 metres in altitude).

The island was built up from successive morphological structures of progressively younger materials, these include:

Topo Volcanic Complex – predominantly built of basalt, hawaiite, and mugearite lavas and pyroclastic deposits and Strombolian cinder cones. Materials in this formation were produced are about 600,000 years in age. Rosais Volcanic Complex – consisting of the northeastern portion of the island, with a similar composition to those materials in Topo. Manadas Volcanic Complex – most recent formation composed of Strombolian cones and two Surtseyan cones (Morro de Lemos and Morro Velho), as well as craters and tuff rings resulting from Phreatomagmatic activity. The island is 55 km in length from the Ponta dos Rosais until the Topo Islet and a maximum width between Fajã das Pontas and Portinho da Calheta (approximately 7 km). The highest point is Pico da Esperança at 1,053 meters. The island has an area of 246 km2, with an obvious difference in the relief between the western and eastern portions of the island: the western coast is ringed with cliffs, while the eastern coast is morphologically smoother. Similarly, the contrast between the northern and southern coasts are obvious; apart from several deltas (fajãs) on both coasts, the northern coast has sharp cliffs, while the southern coast is less inclined. The majority of the cliffs in the northeast are between 300 and 400 m with severe slopes (between 45° and 55°). In this area, many of the fajãs, some composed of lavas (Fajã do Ouvidor, Fajã das Pontas and Fajã da Ribeira da Areia) and others dendritic (Fajã de João Dias and Fajã da Penedia), are visible. In the southwest the cliffs are approximately 100m in height and most settlements are located along the lava deltas, such as the Fajã das Velas, Fajã da Queimada, Fajã Grande and Fajã da Calheta.

Eruption history Periods of local prosperity or misery occurred in the following years; there were several bad growing seasons and natural catastrophes (such as the earthquakes, volcanic eruptions and tornados in 1580, 1757, 1808 and 1899) that created famines and hardships. The most famous of these eruptions began in the early morning of May 1, 1808 (Urzelina eruption). Suffocating gases, as well as carboxylic acid, were emitted from a vent along the Manadas ridge and thick greenish vaporous clouds (of chloric and sulfuric acids) rapidly spread to the plants. Eight major tremors were recorded per hour that caused widespread panic. Many of the homes, buildings and cultivatable lands were destroyed. Between 1580 and 1907, at least six significant eruptions occurred; ten people were killed during the 1580 eruption and eight in 1808. In 1850, the island's vineyards were devastated by the phylloxera plague, which had a terrible effect on the economy until the development of the orange industry (about 1860). The island's isolation ended after the completion of the ports of Velas and Calheta.

The last terrestrial volcanic eruption on the island of São Jorge was the eruption of "Vulcão da Urzelina" in 1808.

2022 São Jorge Seismovolcanic crisis From March 2022, São Jorge Island had been the location of a serious seismovolcanic crisis. The Instituto de Investigação em Vulcanologia e Avaliação de Riscos is following the crisis with a special webpage called "". The alarm level on 26 March was 4, "this means that according to the alarm scale in force in the Azores archipelago we are in the pre-eruptive volcanic phase".

Climate Owing to its position in the mid-North Atlantic Ocean, influenced by the Gulf Stream, São Jorge has a humid subtropical climate with very mild winters and warm summers, although, being a generally elevated island, temperatures tend to be cooler on the hilly center and warmer downslope of the many fajãs that characterize the island. Water temperatures vary between while the average temperature varies between .

Human geography

The geomorphology of the island (its high cliffs, rough central plateaus and scattered fajãs) resulted in the concentration of human settlements along the coast. Historically these communities were linked by coastal ports since the trails in the interior were barely transitable. Consequently, communities were isolated from one another necessitating local solutions to common problems and building local ties between families. Velas, Calheta and Topo developed partially due to well developed ports and local economies, in addition to administrative necessity and central positions. The settlements developed with immigration from Spain and Flanders, principally by settlers brought by the Ávilas and by Willem van de Hagen.

Administratively, São Jorge is divided into two municipalities: Calheta in the east with five parishes and Velas in the west with six parishes. The rural population is basically aligned along the lines of communication divided by areas of unpopulated pastureland between localities.

Economy

After a period of small subsistence agriculture, the local economy began to concentrate on a few chief exports: initially, lichen (Roccella tinctoria) and woad (Isatis tinctoria), later the introduction of wheat and corn crops. Woad was one of the most important exports from São Jorge and the Azores; it was initially introduced by Willem van der Hagen around 1490, and exported primarily to his countrymen in Flanders. Both woad and lichen were very popular in central Europe as a dye.