Sbai ( ; ; Malay: Sebai; Jawi: سباي; , ) or phaa biang ( ; ) is a shawl-like garment worn by women in Cambodia, Laos, and Thailand to cover the breasts, while in Sumatra, Borneo and the Malay Peninsula, the same term is used to describe a cloth hanging from the shoulders. The sbai was derived from the Indian sari, the end of which is worn over one shoulder.
Etymology The term sbai is the contracted form of vowels which has its ultimately original roots from the Austronesian term *cahebay,Wolff, John U et al. (2010). Proto-Austronesian Phonology with Glossary Vol. II. Ithaca, NY: Cornell Southeast Asia Program Publications. p. 838. Blust, Robert A., Pawley, Andrew, and Adelaar, K. Alexander. (2009). Austronesian Historical Linguistics and Culture History A Festschrift for Robert Blust. Canberra: Pacific Linguistics, Research School of Pacific and Asian Studies, The Australian National University. p. 118. "*cahebay 'hang'". which was diversified as the first exodus in Taiwan as the Formosan term *sapayWolff, John U et al. (2010). Proto-Austronesian Phonology with Glossary Vol. I. Ithaca, NY: Cornell Southeast Asia Program Publications. pp. 215, 217, 522. from south China between 5,000–4,500 BCE, and the second exodus to the Philippines, Indonesia, and others occurred around 3,000–2,000 BCE.West, Barbara A. (2009). "Austronesians," Encyclopedia of the Peoples of Asia and Oceania. New York, NY: Facts On File, Inc. pp. 64-65.
Its vowel sequence was contracted from south China to the first exodus: *cahebay*cahbay*cahpay*sapay (meaning: 'to hang'). According to the Proto-Austronesian Phonology of Cornell University Southeast Asia Program (SEAP), there is the diversity of the term *cahebay or *sapay into subgroups of other languages families as follows:
Austroasiatic languages: *lɓak (Dvaravati Old Mon and Nyah Kur),Diffloth, Gérard. (1984). The Dvaravati Old Mon language and Nyah Kur. Bangkok: Chulalongkorn University Printing House. p. 166. :— "V42. *lɓak NyK: to wear (cloth) across the shoulder [v.tr]; /ne̫ec - /: cloth for bathing, wrapping around the head... Mon: to wear around the neck; (Ri): to hang (cloth) on shoulder, on a line, in order to dry…" cambāy (Middle Mon), *jbaay (Mon), *sapaysĕbai, sbaisbāy, spaispiey or *sapayspaispiey (Old Khmer and Modern Khmer),Headley Robert K., Rath Chim, and Ok Soeum. (1997). Modern Cambodian-English Dictionary. Kensington, MD: Dunwoody Press. p. 1,385. phìai (Kuy). Austronesian languages: *cahebayłahpay, cahfay, cabfay. (Proto-Austronesian). Formosan languages: *sapaysapai (Puyuma). Indo-European languages: *səmpay (Sangsari). Kra–Dai languages: *sapaysĕbai, sbaisabai, saphaay (Thai).Tumtavitikul, Apiluck. "Perhaps, the tons are in the consonants?," Mon-Khmer Studies Journal (23)(1993): 32.Charoensappapuech, Supat. (2020) ‘สไบ’ คำเขมร ที่ (อาจ) ไม่เขมร [Sabai, in which is not Khmer word] (in Thai). GotoKnow. Retrieved on 10 November 2024. Malayo-Polynesian languages: *sapaysbai,Shellabear, William Girdlestone. (1916). An English-Malay Dictionary. Singapore: Methodist Publishing House. p. 446.:— "Scarf (skarf), s. (round the neck) sapu-targan lehir, sbai;* (round the waist) bngkorg; (over shoulder to carry children) ambin,* slendang." Raffles, Thomas Stamford. (1817). "APPENDIX E. No. I. A Comparative Vocabulary of The Malàyu, Jàvan, Madurese, Bàli, and Lampùng Languages, arranged under the following heads, viz.," The History of Java Volume II: With a Map and Plates. London: Cox and Bailey Limited. p. 97.:— "(ENGLISH) Linen robe or cloth, (MALÁYU) slindang; sbai, (Jáva) kemben, (Bása kráma) kasemékan, (Súnda) karémbong, (Madúra) ..........., (Sumenáp) sa-ung-sa-ung, (BÁLI) tangkálong, (LAMPUNG) kakámban." sĕbai,Wilkinson, Richard James. (1908). An Abridged Malay-English Dictionary (Romanized). Kuala Lumpur: The F.M.S. Government Press. p. 194.:— "sĕbai, a kind of scarf passing behind the neck and with the ends hanging down over the chest." sampai (Malay), sampai (Indonesian), sampay, sampayán (Tagalog), sampe (Makassarese, Serayar), sambay, sablay (Maranao), sumpáy (Ratahan), hafe-hafe (Tondarno), cave- (Filipinno), sappɛ (Buginese), sappɛ-sappɛ (Toba Batak), sampay-an (Ngaju), sampe-lao (Muna), sampi, mi-sampy, sampazana (Malagasy), sambay (Maranao). Indo-European languages: spāy (unverified Sanskrit religious vocabulary as assumed by French.) from the Sanskrit of Khmer inscription on the Tāmrakumbha Indian brass water jug (K.669C Line 18) aged 972 CE at Preah Vihear.Soutif, Dominique and Estève, Julia. "TEXTS AND OBJECTS Exploiting the Literary Sources of Medieval Cambodia," in Hendrickson, Mitch; Stark, Miriam T.; and Evans, Damian. (2023). The Angkorian World. London; New York, NY: Routledge. p. 31. Dravidian languages: calvai, cālvai, sālvai, sâlvai (Tamil),Spaulding, Levi; Hutchings, Samuel; Pillai, C. Appasamy; Knight, Joseph; Winslow, Miron (1888). English and Tamil Dictionary: For the Use of Students and Colleges. (3rd ed.). Madras: Higginbotham and Co. p. 1,211. from Modern Persian šālCorriente, Federico (2008). Dictionary of Arabic and Allied Loanwords: Spanish, Portuguese Catalan, Galician and Kindred Dialects. Leiden: Koninklijke Brill NV. p. 259. or Urdu and Persian chal, shal, shàl.Multiple sources: University of Madras (1986). Annals of Oriental Research [Journal of Oriental Research of the University of Madras], 32: 145. "cālvai < P. Shal 'shawl'" University of Madras (1928). Tamil Lexicon Vol. III. Part II. Mylapore: The Madras Law Journal Press. p. 1,389. Lafayette, Maximillien de (2018). Etymology, Philology And Comparative Dictionary Of Synonyms In 22 Dead And Ancient Languages Vol. III: C-D (Cabbut- Dyutho) From A Set Of 6 Volumes: Origin And History Of Words And Dialects, Akkadian, ... [sic] ... , Urdu. (3rd ed.). New York, NY: Times Square Press. p. 92.
History Sbai is derived from the Indian sari, which may have been introduced to Southeast Asia through the Indianized Kingdoms, the most notable being Funan, Srivijaya, and the Khmer Empire, which spread clothing and other traditions and elements of Indian culture.
Cambodia
In Khmer, the sbai (ស្បៃ) refers to an asymmetrical breast-sash, usually embroidered and of silk, worn for ballet performances and ceremonies. Chinese chronicles relay from the founding legend of Neang Neak and Preah Thong that the latter was unhappy with Neang Neak's nudity and he "folded a piece of material to make a garment through which he had her pass her head." Scholar and ballet teacher Prumsodun Ok writes that this describes how one wears a pre-sewn sbai.
The sbai is used in traditional Khmer weddings during the rite of ("Preah Thong holding on to the sbai of Neang Neak"), which represents the legend of the foundation of the Khmer people: groom carries the bride's sbai from behind for a ritualistic walk to "symbolize their entering into her naga realm." At Angkor Wat, there are 12th century depictions of topless devatas (Khmer: tevoda ទេវតា) holding a sbai connected to their sampot, while the northern wall of Angkor Wat depicts a 16th-century group of Theravada Buddhist ladies wearing long sbai while holding various offerings.
For men, especially Brahmin and Buddhist monk, the sbai called sbong sbai trai chivor, and is considered the robe of Hindu and Buddhist monks. For women, sbai can be freely used and in different ways such as to wrapping it around the body, covering the shoulder, and commonly covering the breast and stomach over the left shoulder. Prumsodun Ok on etymology:
In a village called Sampan Leu in the Sa’ang District of Kandal province, sbai embroidery is a tradition passed down over generations for some 40 families, and the commune chief says the practice goes back to ancient times for some villages. Villagers from teenagers to 60 year olds participate in the process. The designs themselves are decided by customers and the "predefined patterns" are passed on to the embroiderers. Pieces are often rented by those visiting Angkor Wat, for festivals, and also weddings, and material is not limited to silk. The in-demand sbais are crafted with authentic, traditional Khmer patterns by the artisans with the goal of preserving Khmer culture.
In June of 2026, Cambodia’s Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts responded to comments by Thai officials perceived as claiming ownership of the sbai by saying the sbai in Cambodia dates back to the Funan era and is an important part of Khmer women’s attire “preserved and practiced by Khmer people across generations up to the present day.”
Laos
In Laos, this garment is known as phaa biang (Lao: ຜ້າບ່ຽງ) or sabai. It is common for Lao women to wear sabai/phaa biang as it is considered traditional clothing. A sabai can also be worn by men in weddings or when attending religious ceremonies. The type typically worn by Lao men often has checkered patterns. Sabai/phaa biang can also be a long piece of silk, about a foot wide, that is draped diagonally over the chest covering one shoulder with one end dropping behind the back.Bonnie Ghazarbekian, Jane Siegel, Sawaddi, 15 years, p.130. Important and sacred in Lao culture, phaa biang can be of various fabric and worn regardless of age. For occasions such as wedding ceremonies, visits to a pagoda, or New Year celebrations, the phaa biang is often draped over traditional outfits. Laywomen in Luang Prabang wear phaa biang to comply with Buddhist modesty rules. This secures the collar and keeps the upper body concealed. Women attending a Vat Manorom monk coronation laid their phaa biangs out on the hall floor to welcome the monks. The Lao sabai/phaa biang may bear a hybrid "dragon/serpent and ancient ship" image.
Malaysia In Malaysia, sebai is a cloth wrapped around the neck to cover the shoulders with both ends hanging on the chest similar to a scarf hung over the shoulders. Sarong cloth in Malaysia may be made into a sebai, and it was Malay wedding tradition to gift a sarong to be fashioned into a sebai.
Mon people of Myanmar and Thailand
Historically, the people of Dvaravati are identified by scholars as ethnically and culturally Mon, representing an early Indianized Mon polity. The Mon have a tradition of wearing the shawl-like breast cloth called yat toot in Mon language. Yat toots are often made of silk, worn diagonally across the chest and over one shoulder, with the garment's end flowing down behind the back. The garment may be embellished with motifs from the Mon heritage, such as the mythical hongsa, a Mon water bird often represented as a duck or swan, and accented with Mon floral symbols. In 2024, University of the Philippines Open University (UPOU) Professor Emeritus Dr. Grace Javier Alfonso travelled to the Mon community of Bang Tanai in Thailand to help reinvigorate the Mon yat toot tradition through packaging that showcases Mon craftsmanship. Artifacts found in ethnic Mon Dvaravati sites depict group of ladies wearing what is similar to yat toot.
Thailand
Sabai (, , ) or pha biang ( ) is shawl-like garment, or breast cloth. Sabais can be used by women or men. The sabai is also known as a long piece of silk, about a foot wide, draped diagonally around the chest by covering one shoulder which its end drops behind the back. Sabais could be worn around the naked chest or on top of another cloth. The practice of wearing Sabai along with Victorian cloth was a common practice during the reign of King Chulalongkorn and lasted until the reign of King Vajiravudh when Westernized clothing became more fashionable.
Gallery
See also Sompot chong kben Khmer traditional clothing Culture of Cambodia Traditional Thai clothing Sampot Sampot chang samluy Kemben Malaysian cultural outfits Sari
References
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