Shampoo () is a hair care product, typically in the form of a viscous liquid, that is formulated to be used for cleaning (scalp) hair. Less commonly, it is available in solid bar format (not to be confused with "dry shampoo" which is a separate product). Shampoo is used by applying it to wet hair, massaging the product in the hair, roots and scalp, and then rinsing it out. Some users may follow shampooing with the use of hair conditioner.
Shampoo is typically used to remove the unwanted build-up of sebum (natural oils) in the hair without stripping out so much as to make hair unmanageable. Shampoo is generally made by combining a surfactant, most often sodium lauryl sulfate or sodium laureth sulfate, with a co-surfactant, most often cocamidopropyl betaine in water. The sulfate ingredient acts as a surfactant, trapping oils and other contaminants, similarly to soap.
Shampoos are mainly marketed to individuals for their hair. There are also medicated shampoos intended for animals. These shampoos may contain insecticides or other important medications such as chlorhexidine, used to treat skin conditions or parasite infestations such as fleas.
History Ancient Mesopotamia Texts from Akkadian period show that Mesopotamians dealt with a wide range of skin diseases. Their culture emphasized personal hygiene to prevent illness, and there is frequent reference to their use of both medicated and regular soaps and shampoos as methods of prevention and treatment.
Ancient Mesopotamian tablets from the Neo-Assyrian period document the use of medicated shampoo to treat scalp eruptions.
Indian subcontinent
The word shampoo entered the English language during the colonial era in India.M. J. Campion, Hobson-Jobson: The words English owes to India . BBC News, 11 July 2012. It dates to 1762 and derives from the Hindi word (, ) or shampoo, () is the imperative of (, ), 'to smear, knead the muscles, massage the head and hair'.American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language, 4th Edition, See Shampoo; Also see Shampoo . Hobson-Jobson (1903), University of Chicago. itself derived from the Sanskrit root (), which means 'to press, knead, or soothe'. Shampoo is a type of traditional Indian head massage using hair oil.Sanskrit Lexicon, University of Koeln, Germany, see चपयति (2008).Shampoo , Etymology Dictionary (2006).Virginia Smith (2007), Clean: A History of Personal Hygiene and Purity, Oxford University Press,
In India, a variety of herbs and their extracts have been used as shampoos since ancient times. A very effective early shampoo was made by boiling sapindus with dried Indian gooseberry (amla) and a selection of other herbs, using the strained extract. At the pre-Indus Valley Civilisation site of Banawali evidence is found of sapindus, Indian gooseberry and shikakai which were used for to prepare herbal products including those for hair care.
Sapindus, also known as soapberries or soapnuts, a tropical tree widespread in India, is called ksuna (Sanskrit: क्षुण)kSuNa , Sanskrit Lexicon, Monier-Williams Dictionary (1872) in ancient Indian texts and its fruit pulp contains saponins which are a natural surfactant. The extract of soapberries creates a lather which Indian texts called phenaka (Sanskrit: फेनक).phenaka , Spoken Sanskrit, University of Koeln, Germany It leaves the hair soft, shiny and manageable. Other products used for hair cleansing were shikakai, hibiscus flowers,Rahman, , Oxford University Press, , page 145 ritha (Sapindus mukorossi) and arappu (Albizzia amara). Guru Nanak, the founder and the first guru of Sikhism, made references to the soapberry tree and soap in the 16th-century.Khushwant Singh, Hymns of Guru Nanak, Orient Longman,
Europe
Gauls used soap from goat's fat and beech ash for brightening the hair. Romans did not make soap, but cleansed their bodies and hair with a mixture of oils and sand.
During the 17th century, people of the upper classes commonly wore wigs; cleaning hair with water was discouraged and instead hair was applied with oils. In the 18th century, the wealthy classes had spas, but as the working class moved to the cities because of industrialisation, their hygiene suffered.
Dean Mahomed, an Indian traveller, surgeon, and entrepreneur, is credited with introducing the practice of shampoo or "shampooing" (a type of traditional Indian head massage using hair oils) to Britain. In 1814, Mahomed, with his Irish wife Jane Daly, were established as shampooing bathhouse keepers, and a few year later in 1821 opened the first commercial shampooing vapour masseur bath in England, in Brighton. He described the treatment in a local paper as "The Indian Medicated Vapour Bath (a type of steamy "Turkish" bath), a cure to many diseases and giving full relief when everything fails; particularly Rheumatic and paralytic, gout, stiff joints, old sprains, lame legs, aches and pains in the joints". His 1826 book on shampooing featured testimonies from his patients, as well as the details of the treatment made him famous. The book acted as a marketing tool for his unique baths in Brighton and capitalised on the early 19th-century trend for seaside spa treatments.
The "wash the hair" meaning of shampoo was first recorded in 1860. During the early stages of shampoo in Europe, English hair stylists boiled shaved soap in water and added herbs to give the hair shine and fragrance. Commercially made shampoo was available from the turn of the 20th century. A 1914 advertisement for Canthrox Shampoo in American Magazine showed young women at camp washing their hair with Canthrox in a lake; magazine advertisements in 1914 by Rexall featured Harmony Hair Beautifier and Shampoo.Victoria Sherrow, Encyclopedia of hair: a cultural history, 2007 s.v. "Advertising" p. 7.
In 1900, German perfumer and hair-stylist Josef Wilhelm Rausch developed the first liquid hair washing soap and named it "Champooing" in Emmishofen, Switzerland. Later, in 1919, Rausch developed an antiseptic chamomile shampooing with a pH of 8.5.
In 1927, liquid shampoo was improved for mass production by German inventor Hans Schwarzkopf in Berlin; his name became a shampoo brand sold in Europe.
Originally, soap and shampoo were very similar products; both containing the same naturally derived surfactants, a type of detergent. Modern shampoo as it is known today was first introduced in the 1930s with Drene, the first shampoo using synthetic surfactants instead of soap.
Indonesia Early shampoos used in Indonesia were made from the husk and straw (merang) of rice. The husks and straws were burned into ash, and the ashes (which have alkaline properties) are mixed with water to form lather. The ashes and lather were scrubbed into the hair and rinsed out, leaving the hair clean, but very dry. Afterwards, coconut oil was applied to the hair in order to moisturize it.
Philippines Filipinos have been traditionally using gugo before commercial shampoos were sold in stores. The shampoo is obtained by soaking and rubbing the bark of the vine Gugo (Entada phaseoloides), producing a lather that cleanses the scalp effectively. Gugo is also used as an ingredient in hair tonics.
Pre-Columbian North America Certain Native American tribes used extracts from North American plants as hair shampoo; for example the Costanoans of present-day coastal California used extracts from the coastal woodfern, Dryopteris expansa.C. Michael Hogan. 2008. Coastal Woodfern (Dryopteris arguta), GlobalTwitcher, ed. N. Stromberg
Pre-Columbian South America Before quinoa can be eaten the saponin must be washed out from the grain prior to cooking. Pre-Columbian Andean civilizations used this soapy by-product as a shampoo.
Types Shampoos can be classified into four main categories:
powder shampoos, which are supplied as a concentrated dry powder and mixed with water before or during use, unlike dry shampoos, which are generally applied to dry hair without rinsing; deep cleansing shampoos, sometimes marketed under descriptions such as volumizing, clarifying, balancing, oil control, or thickening, which have a slightly higher amount of detergent and create a lot of foam; conditioning shampoos, sometimes marketed under descriptions such as moisturizing, 2-in-1, smoothing, anti-frizz, color care, and hydrating, which contain an ingredient like silicone or polyquaternium-10 to smooth the hair; baby shampoos, sometimes marketed as tear-free, which contain less detergent and produce less foam; anti-dandruff shampoos, which are medicated to reduce dandruff.
Composition
Shampoo is generally made by combining a surfactant, most often sodium lauryl sulfate or sodium laureth sulfate, with a co-surfactant, most often cocamidopropyl betaine in water to form a thick, viscous liquid. Other essential ingredients include salt (sodium chloride), which is used to adjust the viscosity, a preservative and fragrance.Robbins, Clarence R., Chemical and physical behavior of human hair, 4th ed (Springer Verlag: New York) 2002. Other ingredients are generally included in shampoo formulations to maximize the following qualities: pleasing foam ease of rinsing minimal skin and eye irritation thick or creamy feeling pleasant fragrance low toxicity good biodegradability slight acidity (pH less than 7) no damage to hair repair of damage already done to hair
Many shampoos are pearlescent. This effect is achieved by the addition of tiny flakes of suitable materials, e.g. glycol distearate, chemically derived from stearic acid, which may have either animal or vegetable origins. Glycol distearate is a wax. Many shampoos also include silicone to provide conditioning benefits.
Commonly used ingredients Ammonium chloride Ammonium lauryl sulfate Glycol Sodium laureth sulfate is derived from coconut oils and is used to soften water and create pleasing foam. Sodium lauryl sulfate is used in stronger shampoos Hypromellose cellulose ethers are widely used as thickeners, rheology modifiers, emulsifiers and dispersants in Shampoo products. Sodium lauroamphoacetate is naturally derived from coconut oils and is used as a cleanser and counter-irritant. This is the ingredient that makes the product tear-free. Polysorbate 20 (abbreviated as PEG(20)) is a mild glycol-based surfactant that is used to solubilize fragrance oils and essential oils, meaning it causes liquid to spread across and penetrate the surface of a solid (i.e. hair). Polysorbate 80 (abbreviated as PEG(80)) is a glycol used to emulsify (or disperse) oils in water so the oils do not float on top. PEG-150 distearate is a simple thickener. Citric acid is produced biochemically and is used as an antioxidant to preserve the oils in the product. While it is a severe eye-irritant, the sodium lauroamphoacetate counteracts that property. Citric acid is used to adjust the pH down to approximately 5.5. It is a fairly weak acid which makes the adjustment easier. Shampoos usually are at pH 5.5 because at slightly acidic pH, the scales on a hair follicle lie flat, making the hair feel smooth and look shiny. It also has a small amount of preservative action. Citric acid, as opposed to any other acid, will prevent bacterial growth. Quaternium-15 is used as a bacterial and fungicidal preservative. Polyquaternium-10 acts as the conditioning ingredient, providing moisture and fullness to the hair. Di-PPG-2 myreth-10 adipate is a water-dispersible emollient that forms clear solutions with surfactant systems. Chloromethylisothiazolinone, or CMIT, is a powerful biocide and preservative.
Claims regarding ingredients