Al-Karkh or just Karkh (Arabic: الكرخ) is historically the name of the western half of Baghdad, Iraq, or alternatively, the western shore of the Tigris River as it ran through Baghdad. The eastern shore is known as al-Rusafa."More than a wall ", Al-Ahram, May 3–9, 2007. Historically, al-Karkh has been a commerce market during the Abbasid Caliphate, located outside the main Round City due to safety concerns. It saw many exports and was the main business place for merchants and craftsmen. Al-Karkh has also historically suffered from infighting, fire, and floods that impacted its population and topography.
In a more limited sense, al-Karkh is one of nine administrative districts in Baghdad, with Mansour district to the west, Kadhimiya district to the northwest, and the Tigris to the north, east and south. The Green Zone (International Zone) is in this district. Today, it is also a neighborhood between the International Zone and the Tigris.
Etymology Al-Karkh's name is derived from the Syriac (ܟܪܟܐ) Karkha; citadel.
History
Early history
First Abbasid period (773–934) Al-Karkh dates back to the early Abbasid period, specifically under Abu Ja’far al-Mansur. Markets played a prominent role in al-Mansur's plan for the newly built Baghdad. Although in 773, safety considerations made al-Mansur move the markets outside the Round City and relocated them to al-Karkh. This was done to keep the turbulent populace away from the Round City to ensure that the gates would not be open at night for markets. Among the markets of al-Karkh were the fruit market, the food market, the money-changers market, the bookshelf market, and the sheep market. The area became a center for merchants and craftsmen. Al-Mansur has also made canals in the area including the Isa canal.Historic Cities of the Islamic World p. 32
Under Caliph Harun al-Rashid, there were three bridges in Baghdad that crossed the Tigris River. One of the more popular ones was located at al-Karkh and was called “Bab Khurasan” and it remained active until the 9th century. During the conflict between al-Amin and al-Ma’mun that lasted for fourteen months, many regions of Baghdad, which includes al-Karkh, suffered heavily although the city was revived after al-Ma’mun took the throne.Historic Cities of the Islamic World p. 34
Markets became an important part of life in Baghdad and markets were especially thriving in al-Karkh. Since the time of al-Mansur, people with the title of “Muhtasib” were appointed to watch over the markets to prevent cheating and check the weighs and measures. Although they also supervised over hammams and possibly watched over mosques. Each market also had a chief hired by the Abbasid government. Baghdad, especially al-Karkh, had also seen a great incentive to commerce and the development of the banking system in the city. Sarrafs had their own markets in al-Karkh. Markets exported silk textiles, cotton, turbans, crystals, potions, glazed wares, and various oils.Historic Cities of the Islamic World p. 35 Among the most famous people from this period was the Sufi sheikh Ma'ruf al-Karkhi. Originally a Christian who converted to Islam, he was an important figure who was buried in a shrine which later became the Sheikh Ma'ruf Mosque which was later renovated by Abbasid Caliph al-Qa'im.
By the last quarter of the 9th century, flood and fire started to materialize. Al-Karkh was flooded in 883 and ruined about 7,000 houses. Between 920 and 921, al-Karkh suffered from a large fire.Historic Cities of the Islamic World p. 36
Buyid period (934–1062)
Life in Baghdad under the Buyid dynasty was hard. While Mu'izz al-Dawla repaired some canals in 946 which improved living conditions, a period followed where some of the canals located in western Baghdad were neglected and in ruins.
When ‘Adud al-Dawla took the throne of the dynasty, he found Baghdad in bad shape and ordered many of its aspects to be rebuilt, including its markets. Despite this, many aspects of Baghdad at this time have shrunken. Most of west Baghdad had declined and al-Karkh was its only area that flourished. During this period, merchants had their places of business in al-Karkh, and western Baghdad started to be called al-Karkh from now on. Ibn Hawqal had visited Baghdad at this time and noted the mosques of the city, including the Buratha Mosque in al-Karkh.Historic Cities of the Islamic World p. 37
The Buyid period was also noted for causing sectarian conflicts between Sunni Muslims and Shi’a Muslims. The Shi’a Buyids made the 10th of Muharram a day of public mourning and closed the markets for two days. Due to the conflicts, al-Karkh was pillaged in 959 and in 971, troubles in the area led to its burning which caused the deaths of 17,000 people and the burning of 300 shops, 33 mosques, and many houses. By 973, fire had destroyed most of al-Karkh and the ayyarun had become active at this time in the region and terrorized its people.
The ayyarun were very active in al-Karkh and burnt many markets since the region was also where many of the richer people lived. The ayyarun remained active in the area until the coming of the Seljuks.Historic Cities of the Islamic World p. 38
Later Abbasid period (936–1258) By the time the Abbasids took back their power, many parts of western Baghdad were in ruins. Gardens and houses in al-Karkh became wastelands. Ibn Jubayr had visited Baghdad at this time and noted its decline, he had described al-Karkh as a walled city. Despite the large reconstruction efforts by the Caliphs, al-Karkh still suffered from various floods and fires. In 1059, much of old Baghdad and al-Karkh was also burnt down.Historic Cities of the Islamic World p. 39 In 1228, the Qamariya Mosque was built in al-Karkh overlooking the Tigris River. The mosque was built by Caliph al-Nasir who then passed its construction to Caliph al-Zahir and finally al-Mustansir.
By 1255, sectarianist fights took place between the regions of Baghdad. Al-Karkh saw a lot of these fights and supported Shi’a Muslims. Soldiers were sent to stop the fighting and keep the order but crowds reportedly pillaged al-Karkh and burned down many of its places, killed many persons, and kidnapped women. The ayyaruns were also back. Floods had also worsened conditions on both sides of the city, the worst being in 1256. By 1258, the Mongols had sieged the city.Historic Cities of the Islamic World p. 40
Later periods (1258–1917) During the Ilkhanate period, most of west Baghdad had disappeared and al-Karkh had become the only side of the Western side of the city that was populated. Mustawfi visited al-Karkh and noted that it was surrounded by a wall with a circuited of 12,000 paces.Historic Cities of the Islamic World p. 41
During the Ottoman period, many houses in Baghdad were poorly built and streets were narrow although the city remained a place for commerce with many foreign merchants coming. Hassan Pasha made a rampant ditch around al-Karkh to protect it from Bedouin marauders.Historic Cities of the Islamic World p. 42
Under the Mamluks of Iraq state, al-Karkh became a suburb with many gardens. It was defenseless until Sulayman the Great, the Mamluk ruler of Iraq, built a wall and a ditch around al-Karkh and restored peace. Al-Karkh had four gates, Bab al-Kazim (north), Bab al-Sheikh Ma’ruf (west), Bab al-Hilla (southwest), and Bab al-Kraimat (south). The walls were 5,800 yards long, enclosing an area of 246 acres. During his visit in 1818, Sir Robert Ker Porter found al-Karkh well-furnished with shops along numerous streets. Although the area was inhabited by common people and used Kuphars to cross the Tigris River.Historic Cities of the Islamic World p. 44 James Silk Buckingham had also visited the area during his visit to Baghdad, he visited the Zumurrud Khatun Mausoleum where he noted its long and spiky dome. He also noted its cafés and mosques, although he wasn't impressed with the mosques which he compared to mosques in Cairo.
During the plague and the flood of 1831, most of al-Karkh was ruined and the water caused cracks in the area's walls. The governor of Baghdad from 1869 to 1872, Midhat Pasha, founded a tramway that linked Baghdad to Kadhimiya in 1870 that gave services for 70 years.Historic Cities of the Islamic World p. 45 By the 20th century, al-Karkh began further upstream than eastern Baghdad but was smaller in depth and length. There were reportedly 18 mosques in al-Karkh along with 25 squares that retained their old names.Historic Cities of the Islamic World p. 46
History after the Independence of Iraq
During the Royal era of Iraq, al-Karkh was the home to various cafés, three of which existed in al-Ja’ifar locality. The Arab game al-Sas was played during the holidays here and it was common to find women selling yogurt on the streets. Projects have also started to materialize in al-Karkh such as erecting the statue of King Faisal I in the Salhia area of al-Karkh which was sculpted by Italian sculptor Pietro Canonica in 1933 to symbolize the important role of the Iraqi King and al-Shawy Mosque which was opened in the presence of King Faisal II and a bunch of Baghdadi scholars in 1957.Al-Taie, Sadiq Iraq: Statue of the founding king between art and politics alquds.co.uk (in Arabic).
A palace was built in the Kharadah Mariam area of Baghdad, a wealthy district in al-Karkh called the "Royal Palace." The palace was built for King Faisal II to reside in following his marriage to the Egyptian Princess Fazile Hanımsultan. However, a day before the wedding, King Faisal II and his family were assassinated during the 14 July Revolution led by Abd al-Karim Qasim who renamed it the “Republican Palace.” Qasim never resided in this palace. On the morning of July 14, 1958, angry demonstrators toppled the statue of King Faisal I. The demonstrators dropped it to be smashed into small pieces, as an expression of their anger and announcing the fall of the monarchy and the beginning of the republic.
When al-Karkh was first identified as a district, it was originally named "al-Za'im District" in relation to the former leader, Abd al-Karim Qasim, as it was mentioned in the Iraqi Republic Guide for the year 1960. The older areas of al-Karkh became heritage and historical sites and were home to many well-known figures such as Mulla Abboud al-Karkhi and the poet Kazem Ismail al-Katea. The house of former-Iraqi presidents Abd al-Salam and Abd al-Rahman Arif is located here. In 1973, work began to develop what would become Haifa Street which had many apartments and 77 buildings. Named after the Palestinian city, the streets stretched 2 kilometers from King Faisal I Square to Sheikh al-Waeli Square. Although the first year and a half of the project were troubled with demolition. The street contained eight complex parts with 10 to 15 floors each and were designed to be personally and socially connected. Architect Mo'ath al-Alusi was brought to design the residential buildings on Haifa Streets in the "Haifa Project". He decided to design the urban fabric of the street based on the traditional urban fabric of al-Karkh and decided to not violate it due to not wanting to destroy Baghdad's identity and tradition. Despite his efforts, many of the traditional homes of al-Karkh have since disappeared with the surviving homes suffering from neglect.
Near the end of the Iraq-Iran War in 1987, and in appreciation of the position of Jordan and its king in support of Iraq in its war, the Iraqi government decided to return the monument of the founding king, Faisal I, to its place in the Salhia area in al-Karkh. A move was made to the museum of the artist Pietro Canonica for the purpose of making a bronze copy according to the marble version in the museum's stores. The statue was restored and remains to this day in King Faisal I Square in front of Haifa Street.
Iraq War