An "Anthony Eden" hat, or simply an "Anthony Eden", was a type of headgear popularised in Britain in the mid-20th century by politician Anthony Eden. Eden, who was known for his sartorial elegance, favoured a silk-brimmed, black felt homburg at a time when most Britons preferred the trilby or the bowler. Eden held a number of cabinet posts in the 1930s and the 1940s, and was Prime Minister from 1955 to 1957.
The hat became so associated with him that it was commonly known in the UK as the "Anthony Eden" (or, in London's Savile Row, simply as the "Eden"). It was not marketed as such and the name was purely informal, but the use of the term was widespread, entering dictionaries and phrase books: for example, it was still listed in the 17th edition of Brewer in 2005 and as recently as 2010 the fashion "guru" Trinny Woodall cited the hat as an example of Eden's reputation for being well dressed.This Week, BBC 1 TV, 23 September 2010 It came into particular vogue among civil servants and diplomats in Whitehall and, to that extent, rather belied the stereotypical view, that lasted until well after the Second World War, of civil servants as a "bowler hat" brigade.In the 1980s, an episode of the BBC television series Yes Minister showed a long line of bowler hatted civil servants lining up to board an aircraft for a diplomatic mission to the Middle East, long after such hats (or any hats) would have been worn in reality ("The Moral Dimension", 1982).
The trilby and the homburg
The homburg had initially been popularised in Britain by King Edward VII who often visited Bad Homburg in Germany.See, for example, Hannah Pakula (1995) An Uncommon Woman: The Empress Frederick. Keith Middlemas refers to Edward VII's "cultivat[ing] a meticulous interest in questions of fashion.... During his reign he gave the seal of approval to the Norfolk jacket, the Tyrolean hat and the grey felt hat [i.e., the homburg]" (Edward VII, 1975). It was essentially a more rigid variant of the trilby which had been fashionable since George du Maurier's novel of that name was published in 1894. The writer and broadcaster Rene Cutforth recalled in the 1970s that:
one of things that strikes me most about the Thirties scene when I think about it now is the trilby hat, the universal headgear of the middle classes ... Sometime early in the century, it must have been a wild gesture of freedom and informality ... By the Thirties it had certainly become degenerate ... It was a hat which had lost all aspiration: it had become a mingy hat ... .
In such circumstances Eden's adherence to the homburg seemed fresh and dashing. He is one of only two British Prime Ministers to have had an item of clothing named after him, the other being the Duke of Wellington (his boot).
Eden's style Eden became, at 38, the youngest Foreign Secretary since William Pitt the Younger in the late 18th century. As a relatively youthful politician among mostly much older men, he appeared fashionably dressed, even flamboyant. In 1936 the American magazine Time referred to his "pin-stripe trousers, modish short jacket and swank black felt hat", worn during a diplomatic mission to the League of Nations in Geneva. Many remarked too on Eden's "film star" appeal, even as late as the 1950sSee, for example, Harold Macmillan, Diary 13–15 August 1952 (ed. Peter Catterall, 2003) when, as Prime Minister, he retained his youthful good looks.For example, Cecil Beaton, Diary, October 1956 (quoted in Hugo Vickers (1994) Loving Garbo) His biographer D. R. Thorpe, who likened the young Eden to a mixture of Sir Galahad (Eden won the Military Cross in the First World War) and Beau Brummell (the Regency dandy in whose London house Eden lived for a time), commented on a photograph of him, arriving in Russia by train in hat and fur-lined coat in 1935, that "it seemed to some as if Tolstoy's Count Vronsky [a glamorous character in the novel Anna Karenina] were alighting at the platform".
In addition to the homburg, Eden was associated with the mid-1930s fashion for wearing a white linen waistcoat with a lounge suit, while the poet and novelist Robert Graves likened Eden's moustache to those of film stars Ronald Colman, William Powell and Clark Gable: "the new moustache was small, short and carefully cut, sometimes slightly curved over the lip at either end, sometimes making a thin straight line". When Eden visited New York City in 1938 he was "deluged with fan mail from teenage college girls to elderly matrons", while women reporters and society editors "gushed about his classic features, his long dark eyelashes, his limpid eyes, his clear skin, his wavy hair, his charm and magnetism". In another American city, a display of homburgs in a shop window was adorned with the sign "Welcome to Anthony Eden". In Amsterdam the hat became known as the "Lord Eden".
"Heads like his" The journalist Malcolm Muggeridge, who was not an admirer of Eden, recalled that, among other qualities, "an elegant appearance and an earnest disposition ... equipped him for dazzling advancement ... An astrakhan collar became him. What came to be known as an Anthony Eden hat grew on heads like his". In June 1938, four months after Eden's resignation from Neville Chamberlain's Cabinet, the Member of Parliament and diarist "Chips" Channon noted that he had "doffed his bowler" to Chamberlain in St. James's Park and that "everyone wears a bowler now ... [Si]nce the Eden debacle black homburgs are "out"".Sir Henry Channon, diary, 14 June 1938 However, in August of that year, the British Minister in Prague, Basil Newton, wore "a black homburg of the kind made fashionable by Anthony Eden" to greet Lord Runciman on his arrival by train at Wilson station for talks with the Czechoslovak government. In 1939, writing to a former classmate during a European tour, the future United States President John F. Kennedy remarked that he had not been doing much work, "but have been sporting around in my morning coat, my 'Anthony Eden' black homburg and white gardenia".
The "glamour boys" There were those who believed, like Muggeridge, that Eden's rapid rise through the political hierarchy owed as much to image as to substance. In the period between his resignation and his return to the government on the outbreak of war in 1939, Eden and his acolytes, who, broadly speaking, favoured a tougher stance against Adolf Hitler and Benito Mussolini, were often referred to as "the glamour boys".Sir Henry Channon, diary, 1 & 3 November 1938. Harold Nicolson, a member of this group who found Eden's approach ineffectual, observed that Eden was missing "every boat with exquisite elegance".
Some contemporary observers thought they detected a "prima donna" streak in Eden's attitude and appearance. For example, the ageing Earl of Crawford and Balcarres (1871–1940), a snob,His snobbery was such that he had professed himself unable to imagine "anything more middle class" than the contents of a greenhouse on King George V's estate at Sandringham. Diary entry following a visit to Sandringham in 1923: see David Faber (2005) Speaking for England thought him "vain as a peacock and all the mannerisms of a petit maître [in the sense of a dandy or fop]". One of Eden's permanent secretaries, P. J. Grigg, who rarely had a good word to say of anyone, dismissed him as "a poor feeble little pansy".Sir James Grigg, Permanent Under-Secretary at the War Office where Eden was Secretary of State in 1940: Max Hastings (2009) Finest Years: Churchill as Warlord 1939–45. Hastings couples the "pansy" reference (with its effeminate or homosexual connotations) with the unexplained observation that "soldiers thought him incorrigibly "wet" with affectations of manner which they identified with homosexuals". It may be that, seventy or more years ago, Eden's alleged "feminine" side, manner of dress, habit of calling men "my dear" (a trait detested by US Secretary of State John Foster Dulles in the 1950s), dislike of men's clubs and cultivated interest in art and flowers, encouraged such a view. In fact, Eden's well-attested courage, including his military cross from the First World War, and (notwithstanding an apparent expression of doubt in 1955 about Eden's ability to be an effective Prime Minister) Churchill's long-standing belief in him (see Colville (1981) The Churchillians), tend to belie the charge of wetness. And, despite historian Michael Bloch's reference to Eden's having gone through a "queer" phase in his twenties (Closet Queens, 2015) and an unreferenced suggestion that he may have propositioned fellow Etonian Edward Gathorne-Hardy, four years his junior, while at Oxford (see D. J. Taylor (2007) Bright Young Things), there is ample evidence that, in addition to being intensely attractive to women, Eden sometimes pursued his relationships with them to the point of recklessness: see, generally, Rhodes James (1986) and Thorpe (2003); also Douglas Hurd (2010) Choose Your Weapons: The British Foreign Secretary who noted that Eden was "charming and successful with women" and lacked any cohort of male friends, either personal or political. Even his future, much younger second wife confided to her friend Duff Cooper that Eden, with whom she was not then coupled, "never stops trying to make love to her" (Duff Cooper, diary, 24 November 1947, quoted in The Duff Cooper Diaries 1915–1951 (ed John Julius Norwich, 2005)), while, in 1983, Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher apparently remarked to her Party Chairman Cecil Parkinson, who had been having an affair with his secretary, that "they tell me Anthony Eden jumped into bed with every good-looking woman he ever met" (Jonathan Aitken (2013) Margaret Thatcher: Power and Personality). Eden's second son, Nicholas, who succeeded him as Earl of Avon, was homosexual and died of AIDS in 1985: see, for example, Gyles Brandreth, diary, 21 January 1979 (The Diary of a Lifetime, 2009). Less prosaically, W. F. Deedes, a Minister in Eden's Government who, as a journalist, had once commented unfavourably on the colour of Eden's socks,Dear Bill (BBC TV, 1994) remarked half a century later that, in the modern vernacular, Eden would have been called a "smoothie".Suez: A Very British Crisis (BBC TV, 16 October 2006) The philosopher Bertrand Russell thought Eden "not a gentleman" because he dressed "too well",Quoted in The Times, 10 October 2009 while a Ministerial colleague R. A. Butler, alluding to Eden's parentage and highly strung nature, is said to have remarked, "that's Anthony half mad baronet, half beautiful woman".Quoted in Patrick Cosgrave (1981) R. A. Butler; Wikiquote. There has been speculation over the years that, in fact, Eden may have owed his looks to George Wyndham, a politician and aesthete whom he was considered by some to closely resemble, and with whom his mother was rumoured to have had an affair: see, e.g., John Charmely (1989) Chamberlain and the Lost Peace. Eden's most recent biographer notes that Eden could have inherited his temper and aesthetic sensibilities from either Wyndham or Sir William Eden: D.R. Thorpe (2003) Eden.However, Butler had a habit of making such observations, once asking historian Richard Thorpe, "How was Harold Macmillan when you met him? Was he the Duke's son-in-law or the crofter's great-grandson?": D. R. Thorpe (2010) Supermac: The Life of Harold Macmillan